The "Quick Questions That Don't Deserve A Thread"...Thread. v5 - Hardware & Software

the issue is that for some reason the only time the VGA input works is when i put it in an adapter that leads to the mobo neither VGA or HDMI seem to work on the gpu [editline]30th December 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;49418978]Have you enabled a feature called "Multi-Monitor" or something similar is your BIOS? Some motherboards allow the integrated to also run along side the dedicated GPU and also allows you to add more displays.[/QUOTE] to be honest im not entirely sure how to do this, im not fantastic with computers

i have an r9 290 and an fx-8350 but im not getting the frames i thought i would, which should i upgrade?

SOOooo, a quick question regarding routers and networking I think. I don't understand this so I figured I asked you guys. So all devices are connected to internet over wifi. We don't have any cat5 cables aside from the one which goes from router to PoE injector similar to this one . So I had a brilliant idea of forwarding ports to host a zandronum server to play with someone. However when I tried to log in to my router (router being Linksys WRT54G wireless, and the default gateway given by cmd - ipconfig was xxx.xxx.4.1) I was greeted by a login screen (MikroTik RouterOS v5.26 ) which didn't like default passwords for said router. So I figured when the router was installed passwords were changed. So I kept bugging me pops for the passwords. It would appear they are lost. So being the rebel I am, I decided to factory reset the router and enter new passwords and change our WLAN key from WEP to WPA2, and hopefully forward some ports. Okay. I reset the router, wifi SSID defaulted, everything looked okay. Tried to log in, still nothing. Ok, so I googled some more. Apparently RouterOS has its own passwords then, tried the default one, didn't help. Googled some more until I found something about going to router over ethernet cable. So I take the cable from PoE injector, stick it in and voila, I get a different IP, gateway and all. Now I could log in to my router using xxx.xxx.1.1. Router software was DD-WRT v24 sp2 or smt. Using default password I set up my wifi in the house again, changed router passwords, everything works. Aside from port forwarding. I forwarded the ports from router using IP which was assigned to laptop when over wifi, so xxx.xxx.4.133. When tested they showed up as closed. Now I can only speculate for I don't know shit about routers and networking as mentioned before. I still can't log in to router over wireless for I am greeted with RouterOS login screen which doesn't respect previously assigned router username and password. While connected to wifi, default gateway is xxx.xxx.4.1. When straight connected to router with ethernet the default gateway is xxx.xxx.1.1 and I can log in to router with previous login information. Aside from that I don't quite know. For the RouterOS is MikroTik's product I'm thinking the antenna might be MikroTik's also. This is supported that router installation guide from our ISP says that PoE injector P+Data out should go into MikroTik antenna. You guys have any ideas, what's going on, if at all possible then in laymans terms.

[QUOTE=Vasey105;49419259]i have an r9 290 and an fx-8350 but im not getting the frames i thought i would, which should i upgrade?[/QUOTE] Well, what kind of games are we talking and at what settings? You're honestly not gonna do much better (with a single card solution anyway).

[QUOTE=Bathtub;49418995]to be honest im not entirely sure how to do this, im not fantastic with computers[/QUOTE] 1) Reboot your computer 2) During the beginning of its boot sequence, you need to hit a specific key. [i]Usually[/i], it's F2 or Delete, though I've also seen F1 and F10. Generally, it tells you at the very beginning screen, with "Press this key to enter setup". It's not a timing thing unless your motherboard POSTs really fast, but that said, usually once I know the key, I just keep pressing it repeatedly at bootup and it gets me into the BIOS screen. (I did have one motherboard complain when I did that though, but nothing fatal) 3) From here, we'd have to be in front of the computer to know where to go. BIOSes are all different, and you generally can't VNC or TeamViewer into it.

[QUOTE=GoDong-DK;49418545]Maybe something's up with the headphone port, then. I guess you could check the sound via HDMI, but it seems like it could be working even if it was a software issue.[/QUOTE] It's not the headphone port. The same issue is coming from the speakers.

[QUOTE=GoDong-DK;49419832]Well, what kind of games are we talking and at what settings? You're honestly not gonna do much better (with a single card solution anyway).[/QUOTE] playing rust at high (not max) it's usually 60 but drops to about 40 every now and then. fallout 4 drops to like 30 regularly. i wanna be able to play fallout 4 at high (no AA) at least 60 ive read an octa core is p useless because games dont really utilise 8 cores yet, so i was thinking about getting an intel cpu?

[QUOTE=NixNax123;49420700]It's not the headphone port. The same issue is coming from the speakers.[/QUOTE] Well, that's why I asked whether you used the headphone port for both? Did I miss something here?

I'm running two R9 270s in Crossfire, and occasionally when the other card kicks in (I've launched, or tabbed back into, some game), there's a brief moment where it looks like the vertical hold's maladjusted. Everything, of course, runs fine thereafter, I'm just wondering if there's any meaning to this that I should care about. [editline]30th December 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=GoDong-DK;49421293]Well, that's why I asked whether you used the headphone port for both? Did I miss something here?[/QUOTE] His speakers are probably plugged into the other port 24/7, so he checks the headphone port purely by unplugging it and seeing if the speakers do the same thing. I used to run that configuration for a while

I think the speakers are plugged into a port on the tower, while the speaker setup has a little hub with volume / bass control that you can plug your headphones into. The problem persists with or without headphones

I have a problem that is driving me insane. I was playing some CS GO using a wireless mouse, and suddenly it stops working, and I hear the normal device disconnected sound. However, I keep hearing it ever second. I checked the toolbar and noticed that the Safely Remove Hardware and Eject Media button kept appearing and disappearing when the sound was played. I went into device manager and saw that the device manager was like refreshing every time the sound played also. I went into the Intel Bluetooth properties and it said the device couldn't be started due to a power failure? I can't seem to uninstall it, but I was able to disable it. Anybody have any ideas on what could cause it to happen? It couldn't be a hardware problem could it? Laptop is brand new its like my 8th time using the thing. Appreciate any help with it

this message keeps popping up every few hours taking me out of focus when playing xbox/any pc game etc. and it's fucking infuriating when i does [img]http://i.imgur.com/pcLasxK.png[/img] how do i disable it

[QUOTE=Over-Run;49423049]I have a problem that is driving me insane. I was playing some CS GO using a wireless mouse, and suddenly it stops working, and I hear the normal device disconnected sound. However, I keep hearing it ever second. I checked the toolbar and noticed that the Safely Remove Hardware and Eject Media button kept appearing and disappearing when the sound was played. I went into device manager and saw that the device manager was like refreshing every time the sound played also. I went into the Intel Bluetooth properties and it said the device couldn't be started due to a power failure? I can't seem to uninstall it, but I was able to disable it. Anybody have any ideas on what could cause it to happen? It couldn't be a hardware problem could it? Laptop is brand new its like my 8th time using the thing. Appreciate any help with it[/QUOTE] Sure it's not just dead batteries? [editline]30th December 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=343N;49424218]this message keeps popping up every few hours taking me out of focus when playing xbox/any pc game etc. and it's fucking infuriating when i does [img]http://i.imgur.com/pcLasxK.png[/img] how do i disable it[/QUOTE] You get the updates.

[QUOTE=lavacano;49424563]Sure it's not just dead batteries? .[/QUOTE] Dead batteries for what? The mouse? No I have plugged everything out of the laptop and it keeps on making the sound and in device manager I see Intel Bluetooth device keeping like appearing every second like its being unplugged and plugged in again every second. How can I install it without having it reinstall itself? Whenever I try uninstall it tells me to reset to finish the uninstall but it always just comes back

I feel like a fucking idiot asking this, but... I've been wearing headphones/headsets since I was, around, say, 10. I'm currently 15 now and I've noticed there's an indent on my head where my headset sits. It isn't a large indent, but you notice it if you feel it. Now, I've heard conflicting reports. Some are saying it's just pressure flattening tissue, and will go away over time, some say that it can permanently indent. I can't stop thinking about this, I'm rather paranoid about it.

[QUOTE=TechnoSandwic;49426104]I feel like a fucking idiot asking this, but... I've been wearing headphones/headsets since I was, around, say, 10. I'm currently 15 now and I've noticed there's an indent on my head where my headset sits. It isn't a large indent, but you notice it if you feel it. Now, I've heard conflicting reports. Some are saying it's just pressure flattening tissue, and will go away over time, some say that it can permanently indent. I can't stop thinking about this, I'm rather paranoid about it.[/QUOTE] If you want it to go away, stop wearing headphones / move your headphones away from that spot. It's not going to actually indent the skull, so the tissue explanation is probably correct, however it will only get worse if you keep wearing them.

So I heard about the ARG Valve was running, and figured I might as well play through Half-Life 2, because if there's something there, I'd be able to find it, and if there isn't anything there, then I never finished it all anyway so now's a good time to fix that. Except, when I launch Half-Life 2... [img]http://jesusfuck.me/di/AHT8/hl2.png[/img] It's been a while since I last tried troubleshooting Source engine, where should I start? [editline]31st December 2015[/editline] I launched it again to see if Visual Studio's debugger would help at all, and suddenly it worked no problem. Never mind me I guess?

Source is weird, I would just leave it to space magic and call it a day.

$65 seems like bullshit just for software that can play Blu-ray discs, anybody know any alternatives to WinDVD? Don't say PowerDVD because that didn't work on my PC at all.

[del]The Philips 273E3LHSB/00 is a 1920x1080 monitor and I've been using it in 1600x1200 for over a year. I'm running an AMD Radeon R9 280x I fixed it around 2 days ago and now, with AMDs new Crimson drivers, i was looking through the settings in their shiny new menu, and now my monitor is back to 1600x1200. I've managed to figure out it could be a problem with my EDID, and it would make sense, as CCC cannot detect ANYTHING correctly about the monitor, as seen here: [url]http://imgur.com/vVB6khk[/url] [1] and it shows up as a Generic Non-PnP Monitor in the Device Manager. From I could gather, it seems to fix this someone needs to do an EDID dump or something? Although, if there is another way to fix this, I would be happy to try it out. Thanks. I deleted my drivers using DDU and reinstalled them, so now I don't have the fucking Crimson drivers again, just the normal CCC. It still can't detect anything. I switched my resolution to 1920x1080@60Hz in CCC and I something has gone right? But now text on my screen is starting to flicker, and the monitor still shows as a Generic Non-PnP Monitor.[/del] I fixed it by storming through CCC and changing settings until the text stopped flickering. It was a mix of settings between Desktop Management and My VGA Displays, if anyone would like to know..

-solved it luckily-

-snip dump sry-

This may sound silly but I'm literally just looking for a cheap laptop that I can watch stuff on while I'm laying in bed when I feel lazy. So basically, can anyone recommend a cheap laptop with a decent screen?

Laptop of 4 years has been running into certain "phases" where certain folders like Music and Pictures would freeze up and take ages to load - seeing the green loading bar at the top of the navigation thing in Explorer crawl up to 99.9% and not loading at all. Things freeze up, then it leaks over to Steam and that freezes up - everything becomes totally unresponsive to the point where I just order a shutdown. And then the laptop takes fucking ages to shut down or it just doesn't at all - it's just stuck in some sort of limbo "computing / thinking" phase which in time results in the classic last resort of holding down the power button. Is my HDD seeing the last of its days? Is it time to order a bigger replacement? Most of the time it runs fine but the meltdowns aren't uncommon. I've tried defragging and cleaning up the disk but such were only temporary solutions. I'm thinking of throwing in the towel by replacing and perhaps upgrading the hard drive to a larger capacity - around 2TB after 4 years of 800GB-1TB. Are hard drives dependant on motherboard specs? Or is it just sockets that matter? Don't worry as I'm pretty good with hardware as this laptop has already had its dead 670M 1GB GPU replaced with a 770M 3GB and has kept up well ever since. Even the motherboard has had a more recent BIOS force-flashed onto it to support the GPU upgrade.

I recently got a PS3 controller, what is the best way of making it work on windows 10? I found a number of different methods but would like your opinions on what is currently the best.

[QUOTE=GreenBH;49436622]Laptop of 4 years has been running into certain "phases" where certain folders like Music and Pictures would freeze up and take ages to load - seeing the green loading bar at the top of the navigation thing in Explorer crawl up to 99.9% and not loading at all. Things freeze up, then it leaks over to Steam and that freezes up - everything becomes totally unresponsive to the point where I just order a shutdown. And then the laptop takes fucking ages to shut down or it just doesn't at all - it's just stuck in some sort of limbo "computing / thinking" phase which in time results in the classic last resort of holding down the power button. Is my HDD seeing the last of its days? Is it time to order a bigger replacement? Most of the time it runs fine but the meltdowns aren't uncommon. I've tried defragging and cleaning up the disk but such were only temporary solutions. I'm thinking of throwing in the towel by replacing and perhaps upgrading the hard drive to a larger capacity - around 2TB after 4 years of 800GB-1TB. Are hard drives dependant on motherboard specs? Or is it just sockets that matter? Don't worry as I'm pretty good with hardware as this laptop has already had its dead 670M 1GB GPU replaced with a 770M 3GB and has kept up well ever since. Even the motherboard has had a more recent BIOS force-flashed onto it to support the GPU upgrade.[/QUOTE] You can see if your HDD is dying by downloading [URL="http://crystalmark.info/software/CrystalDiskInfo/index-e.html"]Crystal Disk Info[/URL], it'll tell you he "health" of any drives you have plugged in. If there are errors, you can attempt to fix them with chkdsk with the /f /r commands. If after running chkdsk and Crystal Disk Info still says you have errors, there are two ways you can go about this: 1. If you have another computer readily available with an open SATA slot or a SATA to USB cable, you can remove your laptop's drive and plug it into your secondary computer, then run chkdsk on your drive again. This'll work because running chkdsk on a drive that is in-use by the Windows OS prevents it from checking every part of the drive because it is still in use. 2. Replace your drive. I'd say by the sounds of it, your HDD is failing, but it's better to check than to make assumptions.

my laptop is giving me an "unmountable boot volume" error on startup and going into a constant reboot loop i can't find any concrete solutions online. if it requires a complete harddrive wipe, is there a way to access my files? i have a lot of documents that would be a huge inconvenience to lose

[QUOTE=Satane;49436155]Might wanna consider a tablet if you're just gonna use it for that[/QUOTE] I was thinking something similar. Thing is, I'll be watching .mkv files with subtitles and Android hasn't really ever liked them that much. No idea if they'd work well on a Tab S2.

[QUOTE=Hamsterjuice;49436947]my laptop is giving me an "unmountable boot volume" error on startup and going into a constant reboot loop i can't find any concrete solutions online. if it requires a complete harddrive wipe, is there a way to access my files? i have a lot of documents that would be a huge inconvenience to lose[/QUOTE] Try the same solution I posted for GreenBH, if your drive isn't starting up and the only solution you can find is completely wiping it, it could be that a part of the Windows OS files are corrupted. [QUOTE=madnath619;49437062]I was thinking something similar. Thing is, I'll be watching .mkv files with subtitles and Android hasn't really ever liked them that much. No idea if they'd work well on a Tab S2.[/QUOTE] You can most definitely find video players on the Play Store that handle MKV files, I'm not sure of any specifically but I'm sure there are some free ones out there.

[QUOTE=Shock_Coil;49436670]I recently got a PS3 controller, what is the best way of making it work on windows 10? I found a number of different methods but would like your opinions on what is currently the best.[/QUOTE] I can help you with my solution, I tried the whole motion joy controller stuff, but that would fail more often than for it to ever fucking install drivers properly, so Instead I used this [url]http://forums.pcsx2.net/Thread-XInput-Wrapper-for-DS3-and-Play-com-USB-Dual-DS2-Controller[/url] Basically it just turns your ps3 controller into a xbox controller and then it picks up flawlessly in basically every game out there, only issue i ran into is once installed it always assumed to be plugged in so my other controller aka an actual xbox controller would always be recieved as player 2, in the software scp driver, I just clicked uninstall, and then whenever I needed both I would install it back in, takes seconds to install. Hopefully that helps you out.