The "Quick Questions That Don't Deserve A Thread"...Thread. v5 - Hardware & Software

[QUOTE=Lordgeorge16;46940796]Most likely, yes. Get two fans for the front and orient them so they're intaking cool air, and set the one fan at the back to exhaust hot air. Your new CPU cooler should help the air flow through your case easier and reduce its overall temperature.[/QUOTE] Cool to hear, will look into this. I'm wondering, does the front panel make a lot of difference? (It's one that closes to reduce the noise, but I'm wondering how much that prevents the fans from taking in cool air?) Also, should I look for anything special when buying fans? Thanks for the massive amount of help.

[QUOTE=Flumbooze;46940863]Cool to hear, will look into this. I'm wondering, does the front panel make a lot of difference? (It's one that closes to reduce the noise, but I'm wondering how much that prevents the fans from taking in cool air?) Also, should I look for anything special when buying fans? Thanks for the massive amount of help.[/QUOTE] It should intake the same amount of cool air whether or not the front panel is attached to the case. Most manufacturers are pretty smart about that these days. As for your fans, just make sure they fit the mounts correctly (some are 120mm, some are 140mm, etc.) and that you have enough system fan headers on your motherboard. If you don't, you can always connect them directly to the cables of your PSU which means they'll be running at 100% speed all the time, or you can buy a fan controller and hook it up to a 5.25" bay on your case if you have any of those slots free.

can someone tell me just why in the fuck nobody offers a monitor that has no bezel all the way around? i mean seriously is it so important that we are shown the big lighted up HURR SAMSUNG or whatever logo at the bottom of the damn thing?

Is there a program like VNC but uses H.264, like game stream?

for tweaking my equalizer settings, is it better to start from the highs or the lows first and adjust from there?

I bought a new custom built PC and I noticed that my case fans aren't running. I tried googling it, but I have no idea what I'm doing so most links don't help me at all. Can anyone help? Case is a R5 Define black, if it matters. I can post the other specs if those are relevant. Are they supposed to be spinning? BIOS reports CHA_Fan as N/A. Edit: nvm there was a fan controller slider on the outside of the case

I recently bought an MSI Geforce 970 Gaming 4G OC. My tower is insulated, so I don't have too much noise coming from it. There is no air to pushed out except on the backside, where all the cables are. My question, is it normal for it being at 58° while idling? I use be quiet Shadow Wings. It seems so much for me, considering that it's a complete new card. Ingame (while playing Evolve Beta) it goes up to 68° but not over 70°.

[QUOTE=highvoltage;46939913]I'm going to place a order for some new parts this weekend but I have a few small questions: 1: Thermal paste, will pretty much anything from [url=http://www.newegg.ca/Thermal-Compound-Grease/SubCategory/ID-85]here[/url] be good? 2: Case fans, should I get more? I have 2 already and I have no idea if I need more. 3: Led fans, If I do need more and I get ones with lights would the lights always be on?[/QUOTE] Re posting because I'm placing the order today. My current case has a button to toggle the front fans light and the fan itself has a 3 pin connector as well as a 2 pin connector that goes to the switch controlling the light, are there other fans that work like this so I can toggle the lights?

So I rebuilt (new motherboard, graphics card, PSU, RAM and hard drive. kept the case and the CPU, since it was an i7) my PC around christmas time. The RAM slots are colored white-black-white-black. I put my 2 ram sticks in the two slots closest to the CPU, one in a white and one in a black slot. I've since read that you are supposed to use two of the same color slots. My computer has been running fine all this time. Should I bother going in and changing the memory to the correct slots?

[QUOTE=cis.joshb;46951118]So I rebuilt (new motherboard, graphics card, PSU, RAM and hard drive. kept the case and the CPU, since it was an i7) my PC around christmas time. The RAM slots are colored white-black-white-black. I put my 2 ram sticks in the two slots closest to the CPU, one in a white and one in a black slot. I've since read that you are supposed to use two of the same color slots. My computer has been running fine all this time. Should I bother going in and changing the memory to the correct slots?[/QUOTE] I would, its more efficient for the CPU to access. Read in your Motherboards manual to see where they recommend putting two sticks, but I'm guessing it'll be the two black slots (2 and 4).

Hey guys! A few hours ago I put on a Kraken G10 to water cool my GPU and so far it's been awesome! temps around 48C at load. I do have one question that's been bugging me. I also bought a bunch of little heat sinks to place on the VRM's of the card in fear of them over heating, but I'm really unsure which pieces of the card are the VRM's. I've tried to research it but any pictures I find just point to the general area rather than a specific piece... So which color is the VRM's? (Red or Blue). I've put the heat sinks on the Red portions; I figured large surface area makes great use for the heat sinks! but I'm still worried.. [img]http://i.cubeupload.com/GYRMbr.jpg[/img]

VRM is not a single component. I doubt the original cooler had any more dedicated cooling for those components than a water block, so I don't know what you are trying to achieve. [editline]17th January 2015[/editline] Though, the most heat would probably come from the MOSFETs, the black packages in the blue frame.

Is it recommended I purchase warranties along with the motherboard/CPU/GPU or are the manufacture warranties usually good enough?

[QUOTE=highvoltage;46953792]Is it recommended I purchase warranties along with the motherboard/CPU/GPU or are the manufacture warranties usually good enough?[/QUOTE] Up to you really and the manufacturer warranty itself. Also, check out the policies of the extended warranty and who actually fulfills the extended warranty (sometimes the company you buy it from contracts with a 3rd party). They can sometimes be pretty shady.

Can somebody explain to me bitrates? Not even sure how they are called, I sometimes convert videos and I have no idea what parameters mean. Like for video: What is data rate and total bitrate? and for audio: What is bitrate and sample rate? In simple english and simple examples if possible?

[QUOTE=arleitiss;46955330]Can somebody explain to me bitrates? Not even sure how they are called, I sometimes convert videos and I have no idea what parameters mean. Like for video: What is data rate and total bitrate? and for audio: What is bitrate and sample rate? In simple english and simple examples if possible?[/QUOTE] Its simply how many bits are used to form that second of video. Simply put, higher = better quality, less pixelated/jpeg effects, but larger file size. How much you need to set it to is going to depend on several factors. Like the resolution of the video (SD vs HD), the bitrate of the input video (setting it too high just wastes space) the purpose of the output video (editing/archiving vs web) and the codec used. Sometimes even the encoder itself can affect the optimal bitrate settings. Also the content of the video (a slideshow or a fixed camera shot is easier to compress than an action movie or game footage). Its actually pretty hard to summarize without giving you overgeneralized/inaccurate info so your probably best off reading a bit on your own. And sometimes you just need to experiment with it. Sample rate is how many times a second the computer samples sound to record/playback audio. Usually, its 44.1 KHz (CD sample rate) or 48 kHz (DVD audio sample rate) but it can be higher/lower in certain situations. Generally, you want to keep this the same as the source audio if possible, as it can introduce some weird sound artifacts, but usually its not a big deal.

[QUOTE=surfur;46951696]Hey guys! A few hours ago I put on a Kraken G10 to water cool my GPU and so far it's been awesome! temps around 48C at load. I do have one question that's been bugging me. I also bought a bunch of little heat sinks to place on the VRM's of the card in fear of them over heating, but I'm really unsure which pieces of the card are the VRM's. I've tried to research it but any pictures I find just point to the general area rather than a specific piece... So which color is the VRM's? (Red or Blue). I've put the heat sinks on the Red portions; I figured large surface area makes great use for the heat sinks! but I'm still worried.. [img]http://i.cubeupload.com/GYRMbr.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] The black bits in the blue box are the VRM's [editline]17th January 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=SEKCobra;46952665]VRM is not a single component. I doubt the original cooler had any more dedicated cooling for those components than a water block, so I don't know what you are trying to achieve. [editline]17th January 2015[/editline] Though, the most heat would probably come from the MOSFETs, the black packages in the blue frame.[/QUOTE] Actually the air being forced down in a radial fan design, or across in reference cools the pcb. Cooling that the waterblock can't provide, as it only covers the die. That's why the kraken has a fan on it above those components, but you can pick up those additional heatsinks if the fan is inadequate for high overclocks.

[QUOTE=Levelog;46955988]The black bits in the blue box are the VRM's [editline]17th January 2015[/editline] Actually the air being forced down in a radial fan design, or across in reference cools the pcb. Cooling that the waterblock can't provide, as it only covers the die. That's why the kraken has a fan on it above those components, but you can pick up those additional heatsinks if the fan is inadequate for high overclocks.[/QUOTE] The reference design is the one using radial fans. Also, most waterblocks I've come across cool more than just the chip itself, but passive cooling might still not be enough. And those are just the MOSFETs, the VRM consists of more parts.

[QUOTE=SEKCobra;46958456]The reference design is the one using radial fans. Also, most waterblocks I've come across cool more than just the chip itself, but passive cooling might still not be enough. And those are just the MOSFETs, the VRM consists of more parts.[/QUOTE] The Kraken is a Mounting bracket to mount an AIO cooler to a GPU die. It isn't a full cover block like you'd find in a full loop. [editline]18th January 2015[/editline] Also to surfur, he's right, those are the mosfets, I'm an idiot.

I replaced my AMD HD5670 with a XFX 280x 3GB OC Edition, but it dissapoints somewhat. If I try to run Euro Truck Simulator 2 at Ultra 1080P for instance I get around 20 FPS average. I know my CPU is quite shit but is it THAT shit? [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/bEQLuxj.png[/IMG]

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;46958525]The i3 has hyper threading but that alone can't really hold up that much. Girlfriend has the same CPU but she never has trouble running games unless its the likes of Saints Row 4 or anything of this year and last year. I'd honestly look into getting an upgrade for your CPU.[/QUOTE] Recommend me a cheap quadcore one because i'm going to buy a DSLR and shit first lol Either with this mobo or new mobo+AMD CPU if that's cheaper

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;46958542][url]http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80637i53470[/url] [url]http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80637i53570[/url] just make sure your bios is up to date before swapping out the processor[/QUOTE] It's a 7 series board and he already has an ivy bridge proc in it, so there should be nothing to worry about.

So ever since I installed an SSD in my system a while back my computer turns itself back on again 9/10 times that I shut it off. I have to force it to shut down by holding the button, I usually wait for my keyboard lights to shut off before doing that. I tried for the longest time to fix it but I can't find anything at all. Any ideas?

So when recording something using my Blue Yeti, I hear this weird electrical noise. I don't care about whether I fix this problem by eliminating the sound altogether or just stop my mic from picking it up, but how could I fix it? Some people on the internet suggested a powered USB hub, others said to buy these cable clams that stops EM (or whatever it was called). [url]https://soundcloud.com/arkadi-de-proft/noise[/url]

Is there any LED's out there or I don't even know what they are called, basically like alienware had/has LED's on it, they are changing based on game? I remember Payday was able to control them during Police Assaults. So is there anything similar to that I can get for PC which would be completey configurable? Say I want to stick it behind monitor, so when not in game - it would adjust color to screen lighting level, while in game - it could do something like change from green to red based on GPU temperature? (Like Nvidia LED visualizer)

So i got my new computer up and running today and everything was just fine untill i decided to try some games. First i started Rome II: Total war and when i reached the main menu i got this weird noise coming from my computer and it didnt stop untill i quit the game. I also tried other games and the same thing occurs! Anyone of you know what could be the problem? I think it might be the videocard but im not sure, for all i know it could be the PSU, my spec: [B]Posting from my order list:[/B] Sapphire Radeon TRI-X R9 290X 4GB Intel Core i7-4790K Corsair CX 750M, 750W PSU HyperX Fury DDR3 1600MHz 8GB Black x2 = 16GB ASUS Z97-A, Socket-1150 Here is a video of it: [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SzMbTewtVEg[/url] Any help is appreciated!

[QUOTE=Hellle;46960019]So i got my new computer up and running today and everything was just fine untill i decided to try some games. First i started Rome II: Total war and when i reached the main menu i got this weird noise coming from my computer and it didnt stop untill i quit the game. I also tried other games and the same thing occurs! Anyone of you know what could be the problem? I think it might be the videocard but im not sure, for all i know it could be the PSU, my spec: [B]Posting from my order list:[/B] Sapphire Radeon TRI-X R9 290X 4GB Intel Core i7-4790K Corsair CX 750M, 750W PSU HyperX Fury DDR3 1600MHz 8GB Black x2 = 16GB ASUS Z97-A, Socket-1150 Here is a video of it: [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SzMbTewtVEg[/url] Any help is appreciated![/QUOTE] [video=youtube;T7HsXHqtxrI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7HsXHqtxrI[/video]

How do I take a 2 minute part of a video out from a larger video? VLC record feature is too jittery and i don't trust shit from google searches.

Magnets shouldn't and don't affect LCD displays. How old is the monitor?

yo, I am trying to fix my dads 5.1 set for his pc because only the 2 front speakers work but so far no luck. His pc doesn't have a dedicated soundcard. Mobo is a MSI P45 Platinum. Everything is connected properly, I've set the audio options to 5.1 surround and when I test the individual speakers in windows sound options everything works. Audio drivers are updated with the Realtek drivers and again, when I test the speakers in the Realtek program they all work, just not when using them in any other program. Any suggestions?