The "Quick Questions That Don't Deserve A Thread"...Thread. v5 - Hardware & Software

I took a look, and yeah the CPUs are a x86 instruction set. [url]http://ark.intel.com/products/27278/Intel-Xeon-Processor-3_06-GHz-512K-Cache-533-MHz-FSB[/url] On the first glance I'm not thinking that would be a huge issue, considering finding DDR1 server RAM would not be easy.

And again I got a question about my "hot as fuck" CPU. Is it normal that there's a gap between the temperatures of each core? I mean, shouldn't they be like relatively close to each other? [t]http://i.imgur.com/CnnFh7x.png[/t] Or can I assume that it's definetely the temperature sensor? Also I'm thinking about replacing my alpenföhn sella with a hyper 212 evo, because the alpenföhn sella has one big failure in my eyes: it's heatpipes, or better [URL="http://www.pcmasters.de/fileadmin/news/EKL/ekl_sella_4.jpg"]the way they're worked into the socket[/URL] that sits on the CPU. And I noticed something odd, those "spikes" are from me playing war thunder and when I was in the menu selecting a plane, however while ingame they were relatively normal(core #1 at 70°C).

Help me guys! I noticed a couple days ago, my pc is consuming too much RAM when i'm doing nothing, only browsing internet with a few programs open. RAM use stays between 85% - 98%.I have a 8GB Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz Vengeance. Here is a pic: [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/1joHycJ.jpg[/thumb] Any thoughts?

[QUOTE=alealienn;47361744]Help me guys! I noticed a couple days ago, my pc is consuming too much RAM when i'm doing nothing, only browsing internet with a few programs open. RAM use stays between 85% - 98%.I have a 8GB Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz Vengeance. Here is a pic: [thumb]http://i.imgur.com/1joHycJ.jpg[/thumb] Any thoughts?[/QUOTE] Go to the processes tab and scroll up/down until you find out which program(s) are eating up so much of your memory. Then, if they aren't vitally important (or if it's some kind of rootkit/virus), force the program(s) to quit.

[QUOTE=Lordgeorge16;47361798]Go to the processes tab and scroll up/down until you find out which program(s) are eating up so much of your memory. Then, if they aren't vitally important (or if it's some kind of rootkit/virus), force the program(s) to quit.[/QUOTE] I don't have anything consuming more than 200 mb memory (besides Google Chrome) and I think all these process together don't match 8gb ram

Hey, I actualy have an issue I can't figure out myself. A month ago I bought a new PC, and the CPU idle temp was around 30 degrees Celsius. Now, that a month has passed they are 35-40 degrees (Depends on the method of measuring). So I can't figure out why the temperature has risen by 5-10 degrees. And the same temperature difference applies when under load. My CPU is Intel Core i7 5820K (NOT OVERCLOCKED) and I am using KÜHLER H2O 650 water cooler for my CPU. The ambient temperature is the same as a month ago, any ideas?

[QUOTE=GoodGorilla;47361992]Hey, I actualy have an issue I can't figure out myself. A month ago I bought a new PC, and the CPU idle temp was around 30 degrees Celsius. Now, that a month has passed they are 35-40 degrees (Depends on the method of measuring). So I can't figure out why the temperature has risen by 5-10 degrees. And the same temperature difference applies when under load. My CPU is Intel Core i7 5820K (NOT OVERCLOCKED) and I am using KÜHLER H2O 650 water cooler for my CPU. The ambient temperature is the same as a month ago, any ideas?[/QUOTE] Could have been a low quality thermal paste that the manufacturer applied to the water block. Buy a new tube of thermal paste, clean the old stuff off of both the block and your CPU, and apply the new stuff. I personally recommend [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209053]Antec's Formula 7 Nano Diamond[/url]. See if you can find that stuff on a more local website, since Newegg only ships to North America right now.

[QUOTE=Lordgeorge16;47362017]Could have been a low quality thermal paste that the manufacturer applied to the water block. Buy a new tube of thermal paste, clean the old stuff off of both the block and your CPU, and apply the new stuff. I personally recommend [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209053]Antec's Formula 7 Nano Diamond[/url]. See if you can find that stuff on a more local website, since Newegg only ships to North America right now.[/QUOTE] I have a tube of Z5 Deep Cool laying around from like 2 years ago, is it any good and still good to use? It has been kept in a cool drawer with the cap screwed on the whole time. [editline]20th March 2015[/editline] [QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;47362030]Dust. Thermal Compound. Airflow. Cooler running at a lower speed. Those are still good idle temps anyway so don't even worry.[/QUOTE] I am not worried about the temps. I just like my PC quite as possible when on idle. The dust buildup is pretty minimal in the case and practicly none on any of the fans. And there is no way the airflow has changed from a month ago.

I've got one other request, if someone is willing to help out. My younger brother wants to build a pc for himself, but needed some help putting together a part list. I was wondering if this seemed like an alright build for not too new games, considering its pretty much pushing his budget at the moment. [url]http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/n6sJZL[/url] Some choices could be attributed to the fact that we're trying to keep everything ordered from Newegg.ca, since we get shafted on shipping charges to our location and would rather have it in a single order. But if there's something glaringly wrong or better, I'd appreciate some reccomendations. Thanks again!

any idea why my 5GHz wireless keeps dropping? I've given up at this point and wound up just using 2.4GHz, but would love to get my devices on 5GHz. the router is 1 meter away from my devices, even less too most likely. sometimes the 5GHz SSID is seen, sometimes not. connecting to it is really unstable. it'll keep dropping and reconnecting. is there a way to troubleshoot this? I have a ASUS NT-66U running Tomato Shibby

[QUOTE=PredGD;47364695]any idea why my 5GHz wireless keeps dropping? I've given up at this point and wound up just using 2.4GHz, but would love to get my devices on 5GHz. the router is 1 meter away from my devices, even less too most likely. sometimes the 5GHz SSID is seen, sometimes not. connecting to it is really unstable. it'll keep dropping and reconnecting. is there a way to troubleshoot this? I have a ASUS NT-66U running Tomato Shibby[/QUOTE] Did it do it when running the stock firmware or DD-WRT? Might be a Tomato bug.

[QUOTE=Demache;47364738]Did it do it when running the stock firmware or DD-WRT? Might be a Tomato bug.[/QUOTE] I haven't tried DD-WRT yet so I can't tell, but I believe it worked better on stock, I can't remember. maybe I should give DD-WRT a shot

[QUOTE=Lordgeorge16;47362017]Could have been a low quality thermal paste that the manufacturer applied to the water block. Buy a new tube of thermal paste, clean the old stuff off of both the block and your CPU, and apply the new stuff. I personally recommend [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209053]Antec's Formula 7 Nano Diamond[/url]. See if you can find that stuff on a more local website, since Newegg only ships to North America right now.[/QUOTE] Just out of curiosity, can I inquire on why you like the Antec paste? Just wondering as I grew up using Arctic Silver 5 and have stuck to it ever since - whenever I hear it brought up everybody either says it's fucking awful or the best thing ever. I've never had trouble with it and it's always kept temps great.

[QUOTE=Demache;47364738]Did it do it when running the stock firmware or DD-WRT? Might be a Tomato bug.[/QUOTE] on DD-WRT right now, and its working flawlessly! though I miss Tomato's UI, was much easier to work in my opinion. might just be something to get used to. is it possible to bind a local IP to a specific MAC? I can't find the function anywhere, was really useful to enable DMZ for my PS4 and making it look tidy

[QUOTE=PredGD;47365834]on DD-WRT right now, and its working flawlessly! though I miss Tomato's UI, was much easier to work in my opinion. might just be something to get used to. is it possible to bind a local IP to a specific MAC? I can't find the function anywhere, was really useful to enable DMZ for my PS4 and making it look tidy[/QUOTE] I don't have a router running DD-WRT right now, but I believe that's an option. Here's the official documentation on it (which is probably 10 years old, but I doubt much has changed :v:) [url]http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Static_DHCP[/url]

My dads laptop is really slow, whenever you open a program or do anything the processor drops from whatever % usage its at to 0 and stays around 0-5% usage until the program launches or does anything then it goes back to normal usage. The time it stays at 0% can range from a couple of seconds to minutes. It's a [URL="http://support.toshiba.com/support/modelHome?freeText=3386622"]Satellite C855D-S5232 [/URL]. Currently trying to defrag, clean the hard disks, clean the registry to see if that helps.

[QUOTE=assassin_Raptor;47365909]My dads laptop is really slow, whenever you open a program or do anything the processor drops from whatever % usage its at to 0 and stays around 0-5% usage until the program launches or does anything then it goes back to normal usage. The time it stays at 0% can range from a couple of seconds to minutes. It's a [URL="http://support.toshiba.com/support/modelHome?freeText=3386622"]Satellite C855D-S5232 [/URL]. Currently trying to defrag, clean the hard disks, clean the registry to see if that helps.[/QUOTE] Hard drive might be dying.

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;47364753]Do it but for future use if you can pick up a H97 Asrock Anniversary or a Z97 board you'll be able to over clock and push that Pentium's potential more later on down the line with a nice and cheap air cooler that isn't the Intel stock. GPU is a little weaker then that'd Id recommend but then again if his games aren't too demanding and he can live with out AA and in some games turning down shaders, it will suffice.[/QUOTE] What other GPU would you recommend, given the rest of the parts? There could possibly be a bit of flexibility with the budget, if it isn't a massive difference in price.

[QUOTE=Demache;47365990]Hard drive might be dying.[/QUOTE] Makes sense seeing as i'm running a disk error checker and its been at 1% for hours.

[QUOTE=~Kiwi~v2;47366186]You could go up to a 250X or a 260 which would bring a lot more performance. [url]http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-video-card-r7260xcnf4[/url][/QUOTE] Alright, thanks a bunch!

I need a torrent program that's alright and wont install bitcoin mining malware on my pc. Just for a single-use thing.

[QUOTE=General J;47366727]I need a torrent program that's alright and wont install bitcoin mining malware on my pc. Just for a single-use thing.[/QUOTE] [url]http://qbittorrent.sourceforge.net/[/url]

[QUOTE=s5300;47365232]Just out of curiosity, can I inquire on why you like the Antec paste? Just wondering as I grew up using Arctic Silver 5 and have stuck to it ever since - whenever I hear it brought up everybody either says it's fucking awful or the best thing ever. I've never had trouble with it and it's always kept temps great.[/QUOTE] I've never actually had a chance to use it myself, but the reviews sound very promising and a friend of mine bought a tube on my recommendation for his CPU/cooler combo (sort of used him as a guinea pig to see what the results would be). He loves the Formula 7 now. Last time I checked, his idle temperatures were in the low 30s/high 20s on an air cooler.

Hey guys. So I've been having an issue with my computer locking up and freezing during games. I've troubleshooted this as down as I can but I can't seem to get any further to the root of the problem.. It doesn't seem to matter which game, demanding or not. I've had it happen with BF4/BFH and also with Ori And The Blind forest, the latter being far less demanding than the other two. Everything will freeze up but I can still hear any looping game sounds like background ambient noise, where other sounds like gunfire and active play have all dissapeared. I can also still talk to my friends on skype for as long as I care until holding down the power button to shut the system off. It also seems to happen at random intervals. Last night it kept happening within 30~ minute segements where as the previous night it took around 2 hours to finally happen. This morning it took 3 hours until a freeze. I've had it happen in the past but now it's starting to become more and more frequent. I've tried doing a Mem Check, nothing came up. Did a disk check, nothing came up. Updated my bios Did a clean installation of my graphics drivers Checked for firmware updates on my SSD Cleaned out the registry Temps and Voltages are fine Nothing is overclocked This pic is right after a freeze. the 66 Degree on my GPU was because I didn't have the fans turned all the way up, maxed out at 54 after that. [t]http://i.cubeupload.com/kFfEHZ.jpg[/t] So I'm a little lost and can't figure anything further. You guys got any ideas? oh and speccy: [t]http://puu.sh/gJv0g/2443c6ea32.png[/t] I guess the last ditch effort is to re-install windows and see if that works :v: kinda sounds like a driver problem at this point..

Would any performance benefits from an SSD be rendered moot by using SATA2 interface? I would think that it would have less bandwidth, which means slower transfer of data but it would still read/write as fast once data gets to the drive. Any thoughts?

[QUOTE=cpt.armadillo;47367971]Would any performance benefits from an SSD be rendered moot by using SATA2 interface? I would think that it would have less bandwidth, which means slower transfer of data but it would still read/write as fast once data gets to the drive. Any thoughts?[/QUOTE] Before I got a new mobo I ran an SSD on a Sata2 port. It was definitly an upgrade from an HDD in every sense. But I was getting half of the speed I could have gotten if I was running it on a Sata3.

[QUOTE=cpt.armadillo;47367971]Would any performance benefits from an SSD be rendered moot by using SATA2 interface? I would think that it would have less bandwidth, which means slower transfer of data but it would still read/write as fast once data gets to the drive. Any thoughts?[/QUOTE] I run an SSD off SATA2. It's not as fast as SATA3 but it's still light-years ahead of any hard drive. A word of advice - if you know it's for a SATA2 computer, you can buy a cheaper, lower-performance SSD, or possibly a slower but larger one like I did.

My brothers PC wont boot. I assumed that the PSU was broken so asked a friend if he could lend me his PSU to test things out. As it turns out his PSU only has a 20 pin connector whereas my brothers motherboard is 24 pins. After googling about I found out that you can plug a 20 pin connector to a 24 pin motherboard. I disconnected pretty much everything except the RAM, plugged the PSU but the PC didn't boot. After hitting the power button the fans would spin for half a second and then stop (also the green LED is on). Should I look for a new PSU with 24 pin connector? Or the motherboard is busted? Also, the computer did not respond to power button at all with the original PSU (what I assume broken) and the power LEDs on the front panel were lit all the time even though the PC was not running. Currently thinking about buying PSU Cooler Master Elite 400W (seems to fit the motherboard, 20+4 pins, 4+4 12v pins), since its cheap and the machine is old so not looking for top tier one.

Alright, thanks guys! It's for an old Dell laptop, and it'll probably migrate to various SATA3 devices after that.

[QUOTE=surfur;47367793]Hey guys. So I've been having an issue with my computer locking up and freezing during games. I've troubleshooted this as down as I can but I can't seem to get any further to the root of the problem.. It doesn't seem to matter which game, demanding or not. I've had it happen with BF4/BFH and also with Ori And The Blind forest, the latter being far less demanding than the other two. Everything will freeze up but I can still hear any looping game sounds like background ambient noise, where other sounds like gunfire and active play have all dissapeared. I can also still talk to my friends on skype for as long as I care until holding down the power button to shut the system off. It also seems to happen at random intervals. Last night it kept happening within 30~ minute segements where as the previous night it took around 2 hours to finally happen. This morning it took 3 hours until a freeze. I've had it happen in the past but now it's starting to become more and more frequent. I've tried doing a Mem Check, nothing came up. Did a disk check, nothing came up. Updated my bios Did a clean installation of my graphics drivers Checked for firmware updates on my SSD Cleaned out the registry Temps and Voltages are fine Nothing is overclocked This pic is right after a freeze. the 66 Degree on my GPU was because I didn't have the fans turned all the way up, maxed out at 54 after that. [t]http://i.cubeupload.com/kFfEHZ.jpg[/t] So I'm a little lost and can't figure anything further. You guys got any ideas? I guess the last ditch effort is to re-install windows and see if that works :v: kinda sounds like a driver problem at this point..[/QUOTE] Looks like you're getting voltage drops on the +12v, based on that HWMonitor image. A new PSU is likely what you need. I suggest an EVGA SuperNOVA G2 750w, a little pricey, but reviews put it as one of the best available. But before buying anything, test your PSU with a multimeter.