[QUOTE=papkee;47842755]SB6120, which now that I look has an advertised IP of 192.168.100.1 but I can't ping that address or connect to it.[/QUOTE]
Hmm. That sucks, mine's a 6121 and works fine. No clue how to get the modem's IP behind the router, and google is filled with a bunch of idiots.
You can access most routers through the default gateway, or their IP is blatantly obvious for example if your ip is 192.168.1.XXX and the address mask is 255.255.255.0 then the router ip is probably 192.168.1.0 or 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.1.100 or something.
you can find all that stuff by doing "ipconfig" in cmd.
[QUOTE=Cold;47842775]You can access most routers through the default gateway, or their IP is blatantly obvious for example if your ip is 192.168.1.XXX and the address mask is 255.255.255.0 then the router ip is probably 192.168.1.0 or 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.1.100 or something.
you can find all that stuff by doing "ipconfig" in cmd.[/QUOTE]
He's trying to access his modem, not his router.
[editline]30th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=papkee;47842755]SB6120, which now that I look has an advertised IP of 192.168.100.1 but I can't ping that address or connect to it.[/QUOTE]
You could try a 192.168.2.1 or 1.1 as I've seen really shitty modems force those addresses on routers, maybe it can go the other way too.
[QUOTE=Levelog;47842780]He's trying to access his modem, not his router.
[/QUOTE]
Oh i generally just find the IP through the router pages tho, they generally have page that shows their WAN info.
You can tracert, and it will show up as a hub.
[QUOTE=Cold;47842840]Oh i generally just find the IP through the router pages tho, they generally have page that shows their WAN info.
You can tracert, and it will show up as a hub.[/QUOTE]
The modem IP isn't the WAN IP though. Tracert wouldn't be a bad idea, but some will be autoconfigured to not respond and just show up as timed out.
[QUOTE=Levelog;47842780]He's trying to access his modem, not his router.
[editline]30th May 2015[/editline]
You could try a 192.168.2.1 or 1.1 as I've seen really shitty modems force those addresses on routers, maybe it can go the other way too.[/QUOTE]
1.1 is my router's panel, and no luck on 2.1.
Weird. I know I've been to this thing's control panel before when I plugged my computer directly into it.
[editline]30th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=Levelog;47842861]The modem IP isn't the WAN IP though. Tracert wouldn't be a bad idea, but some will be autoconfigured to not respond and just show up as timed out.[/QUOTE]
I tried a traceroute earlier and it looks like it just kinda skips over the local area stuff.
[quote]
traceroute to 8.8.8.8 (8.8.8.8), 30 hops max, 38 byte packets
1 96.120.26.169 (96.120.26.169) 11.592 ms 58.960 ms 10.932 ms
2 te-0-3-0-2-sur04.valparaiso.in.chicago.comcast.net (162.151.44.45) 29.771 ms * 20.130 ms
3 te-0-3-0-8-ar01.area4.il.chicago.comcast.net (162.151.44.77) 19.953 ms te-1-8-0-3-ar01.area4.il.chicago.comcast.net (68.87.233.201) 22.981 ms te-0-3-0-7-ar01.area4.il.chicago.comcast.net (162.151.44.73) 16.203 ms
4 * * 4.68.63.125 (4.68.63.125) 20.165 ms
5 Google-level3-50G.Chicago2.Level3.net (4.68.71.166) 19.864 ms 21.182 ms 22.953 ms
6 216.239.43.97 (216.239.43.97) 18.375 ms 19.604 ms 12.841 ms
7 209.85.245.25 (209.85.245.25) 18.429 ms 19.955 ms 19.819 ms
8 google-public-dns-a.google.com (8.8.8.8) 19.939 ms 27.811 ms 19.882 ms
[/quote]
If the modem isn't at 192.168.100.1, you might be able to find it by disconnecting the cable, rebooting it, and then checking what WAN IP the router got.
Most modems I've seen give the router a DHCP address on it's own subnet if it can't establish a cable connection.
And just like that, it's working again.
And I can get in to the control panel now, it is 192.168.100.1
These values all look a bit off though. Is this good/bad?
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Ry4tvD3.jpg[/IMG]
The downstream power level is a bit low. Is it connected through splitters?
I've got my router hooked back up and working and now I can't get to the modem at 192.168.100.1.
I guess the router is blocking it or something. Strange.
I wish I knew how to networking properly; I don't know how you guys do it.
[editline]30th May 2015[/editline]
[QUOTE=IpHa;47843112]The downstream power level is a bit low. Is it connected through splitters?[/QUOTE]
Yeah, a four way splitter for all our TVs and stuff. Never been a problem before though.
Just ordered a Raspberry Pi 2. That'll be a fun muck about.
[QUOTE=Amiga OS;47839735][t]http://i.cubeupload.com/ziGPIX.jpg[/t]
I don't know what I was expecting.[/QUOTE]I tried that with a DVD-RW, no luck.
[QUOTE=RoboChimp;47843230]Just ordered a Raspberry Pi 2. That'll be a fun muck about.
I tried that with a DVD-RW, no luck.[/QUOTE]
Try a USB to SCSI adapter, followed by an MO Drive. CD burners don't automigically work like a proper random access volume.
In related news:
[img]http://i.ebayimg.com/04/!B6l8tRQEWk~$(KGrHqV,!lsEy+jC1VezBM)2-ce+Zw~~_12.JPG[/img]
[url=http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Apple-Macintosh-Notebook-Floppy-Disks-RARE-SEALED-10-Packs-/141489716536]He wants $40 a box...[/url]
[QUOTE=papkee;47843035]And just like that, it's working again.
And I can get in to the control panel now, it is 192.168.100.1
These values all look a bit off though. Is this good/bad?
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/Ry4tvD3.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
As a now expert on cable modems.
Your levels are way too low. Your downstream is on the absolute minimum limit and your upstream is on the maximum limit. Downstream is the power level that reaches the modem from the box out front of the house. Upstream powerlevel is the power level the modem has to hit in order to properly connect to your ISP. If it's too high, it means you have too much signal loss or resistance in your line in the house. I ordered this ([url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006T3H9TM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00[/url]) last night for my brother, He or I will b installing it monday since in his case he's on one line from a split from a main house. So this will be on one line.
But if you have digital TV, it may be worth it to buy like a 4, 5, 8, maybe 9 port "DropAmp" with Active Return. What I linked basically is a two way amp. It boosts the signal going into the house by 15dB and then boosts the signal coming from the modem by 13 or 15dB.
Edit: Another thing, your SNR levels are just on the minimum of good levels. I'd say you have a bad splitter and bad Coax, shows it as being really noisy. That's pretty low.. We're on a 4 way splitter at my house, but we have a new Splitter Amp with Active Return and I have 39dB SNR which is as high as it can feasibly go.
Edit2: This is probably what people would consider ideal levels.
[img]http://puu.sh/i74q8.png[/img]
anyone know where I can buy a power cable with dual IEC C6 connectors? I can't find them anywhere.
[QUOTE=MasterFen006;47845122]anyone know where I can buy a power cable with dual IEC C6 connectors? I can't find them anywhere.[/QUOTE]
The "mickey mouse" style plug?
I know there's plenty of such cables for the old "kitchen electric kettle" style plugs
[QUOTE=Brt5470;47844823]As a now expert on cable modems.
Your levels are way too low. Your downstream is on the absolute minimum limit and your upstream is on the maximum limit. Downstream is the power level that reaches the modem from the box out front of the house. Upstream powerlevel is the power level the modem has to hit in order to properly connect to your ISP. If it's too high, it means you have too much signal loss or resistance in your line in the house. I ordered this ([url]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006T3H9TM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00[/url]) last night for my brother, He or I will b installing it monday since in his case he's on one line from a split from a main house. So this will be on one line.
But if you have digital TV, it may be worth it to buy like a 4, 5, 8, maybe 9 port "DropAmp" with Active Return. What I linked basically is a two way amp. It boosts the signal going into the house by 15dB and then boosts the signal coming from the modem by 13 or 15dB.
Edit: Another thing, your SNR levels are just on the minimum of good levels. I'd say you have a bad splitter and bad Coax, shows it as being really noisy. That's pretty low.. We're on a 4 way splitter at my house, but we have a new Splitter Amp with Active Return and I have 39dB SNR which is as high as it can feasibly go.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the explanation, I knew what all those numbers were but I had no clue what they meant in regards to cable. It makes sense now. We just have a passive splitter that has a 7.5db attenuation per channel so that's a major factor I'm assuming.
I'm going to be rewiring the cable to the modem today with something that isn't beginning to disintegrate.
[QUOTE=papkee;47845430]Thanks for the explanation, I knew what all those numbers were but I had no clue what they meant in regards to cable. It makes sense now. We just have a passive splitter that has a 7.5db attenuation per channel so that's a major factor I'm assuming.
I'm going to be rewiring the cable to the modem today with something that isn't beginning to disintegrate.[/QUOTE]
I've found that using a wire brush on the coax F connectors on the splitter can help if it's an old unit. But you can get new ones in the 5-1000mhz range for like 10bucks on amazon.
So chrome dev channel brought back smooth scrolling on windows, [I]again.[/I]
Google I seriously don't know what goes through your minds.
[QUOTE=Reagy;47847642]So chrome dev channel brought back smooth scrolling on windows, [I]again.[/I]
Google I seriously don't know what goes through your minds.[/QUOTE]
Why can't they get it to work? Firefox has had it as a simple toggle since before version 4...
[QUOTE=Amiga OS;47848003][t]http://i.cubeupload.com/b8Oc91.jpg[/t]
Just ordered myself an IBM dot matrix printer for my PC AT.
It needs a bit of a clean up, and I need to find some tractor feed paper somewhere.[/QUOTE]
fuck, I had one of those once.
the toner tape dried out though, and it later go water damaged due to a hole in the roof.
It's goddamn loud and slow, but watching it print is oddly satisfying.
is there a decent GTX 970 out there that uses a single 8-pin connector?
Yes. Asus Strix 970 only uses one.
[editline]31st May 2015[/editline]
[url]http://www.scan.co.uk/products/4gb-asus-gtx-970-strix-direct-cu-ii-28nm-pcie-30-7010mhz-gddr5-gpu-1051mhz-boost-1178mhz-cores-1664-[/url]
Welp, today's project is finally finished after two runs to menards and a radioshack clearance sale stop.
Installed a new coax run for the modem, added power switches for the modem and router, mounted both to a wood plank and screwed it in to the rafters out of the way.
Now everything checks out in the control panel. Downstream is at 0 dbmV across the board and upstream is at a solid 48, plus the SNR jumped up to 40.
[t]http://i.imgur.com/sNoKRQO.jpg[/t]
[t]http://i.imgur.com/uyCXJ7K.jpg[/t]
So guys, I'm looking at getting a 40"-42" TV for my place that's around the $300-$350 mark. Any recommendations? It doesn't need to be a smart TV. Just at least 2 HDMI ports and not too bulky so that I can wall mount it.
[QUOTE=papkee;47849398]Welp, today's project is finally finished after two runs to menards and a radioshack clearance sale stop.
Installed a new coax run for the modem, added power switches for the modem and router, mounted both to a wood plank and screwed it in to the rafters out of the way.
Now everything checks out in the control panel. Downstream is at 0 dbmV across the board and upstream is at a solid 48, plus the SNR jumped up to 40.
[/QUOTE]
And toggle switches!!! (i love toggle switches)
[QUOTE=Warship;47839812]I wonder what the most ridiculous new/old tech combination we can come up with is.[/QUOTE]
Sharing an image by uploading it to an image host and sending a QR code of the link via fax
[QUOTE=DrTaxi;47850500]Sharing an image by uploading it to an image host and sending a QR code of the link via fax[/QUOTE]
I personally think it would be using a morse code machine, through an arduino interpreter to type on a pc/laptop/tablet.
[QUOTE=DrTaxi;47850500]Sharing an image by uploading it to an image host and sending a QR code of the link via fax[/QUOTE]
We processed a bitcoin hash on a 60 year old mainframe the other week. Took 80 seconds to accomplish one hash.
[QUOTE=Doritos_Man;47849542]So guys, I'm looking at getting a 40"-42" TV for my place that's around the $300-$350 mark. Any recommendations? It doesn't need to be a smart TV. Just at least 2 HDMI ports and not too bulky so that I can wall mount it.[/QUOTE]
[url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sharp-42-class-42-diag--led-1080p-hdtv-black/5420123.p?id=1219128175218&skuId=5420123[/url]
This is pretty great. Often goes on sale for around $325.
I was in the same pool as you - but I'm just going to get a 60hz 40-42' for ~$220. As I see it, you aren't playing a FPS or anything on something like that - for me it's just the occasional console game, movie, or emulator. None of which require 120hz. Then again, I'm a super poor ass piece of shit and if I had the money for a 120hz tv, I'd readily buy it.
[QUOTE=s5300;47850913][url]http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sharp-42-class-42-diag--led-1080p-hdtv-black/5420123.p?id=1219128175218&skuId=5420123[/url]
This is pretty great. Often goes on sale for around $325.
I was in the same pool as you - but I'm just going to get a 60hz 40-42' for ~$220. As I see it, you aren't playing a FPS or anything on something like that - for me it's just the occasional console game, movie, or emulator. None of which require 120hz. Then again, I'm a super poor ass piece of shit and if I had the money for a 120hz tv, I'd readily buy it.[/QUOTE]
What TV did you end up getting? A 40-42" would go very well on my wall above my monitors. Also my 50" plasma is slowly giving out after more than 8 years of service.
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