• The "Quick Questions that does not Deserve a Thread"...Thread. V4
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So I got $240 to spend on a monitor, no more than that with shipping. I'm looking for a 1920x1080 or 1200 IPS monitor, so far I've looked at this one and I think it's my best bet [URL]http://www.microcenter.com/product/401806/EQ246W_24_1080p_IPS_LCD_Monitor[/URL] But I am 100% open to opinions and options in case there is something better.
Is there any way to run games at lower than native resolution, but use black borders instead of stretching or running in a window?
6 months ago I bought a new hard drive and recently it began dropping off randomly. Looking in event viewer I found a couple of instances of related errors("The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Ide\IdePort0" and "An error was detected on device \Device\Harddisk0\DR0 during a paging operation.") but they don't provide too much detail about the issue and googling the issue only finds more people with similar issues but no solution other than things I have tried that haven't worked and replacing the drive. I did an error scan with HD Tune Pro and these were the results (it cut off a little early for some reason, I manually started it again where it stopped and there were no more damaged blocks after where it stopped), sorry about the size of the image: [t]http://i.imgur.com/Er5Sf70.png[/t] and here is the SMART data: [t]http://i.imgur.com/xiJD8xk.png[/t] While I am not sure I think for a new drive this is quite unhealthy. I am fairly certain the problem lies within the drive itself and since the drive is still relatively and still under warranty I can send it back and get a replacement. That being said, I figured I may as well ask here first to see if anyone could comment on the issue. Am I right in thinking this is unhealthy for a new drive and that there should be no problems if I was to send it back? It is probably also worth noting that I had another drive that was much older having similar issues and producing the same errors as this drive.
[QUOTE=damnatus;43312047]Is there any way to run games at lower than native resolution, but use black borders instead of stretching or running in a window?[/QUOTE] Depending on what monitor you have, there may be settings called something like "Fixed Aspect Ratio" which will allow you to fix the aspect ratio for the resolution. Alternatively there is most likely options in your GPU software, again depending on what you're running the options will be under something like "GPU Scaling" and have options such as "Keep Aspect Ratio," (what you want), "Scale Image" (which is stretching). Other methods usually could be to configure the game individually to run in the resolution without stretching.
I have two sets of stereo speakers, one can be plugged in via usb - is there any kind of application that could turn them in to ghetto surround?
[QUOTE=geogzm;43313935]I have two sets of stereo speakers, one can be plugged in via usb - is there any kind of application that could turn them in to ghetto surround?[/QUOTE] I'm not sure about turning them into a perfect surround sound setup, but Virtual Audio Cable lets you create a virtual audio cable (which appears as a single audio device in Windows) and route audio streams through it. It might be possible to route the audio from your speakers and your USB speakers to the virtual cable and then use the virtual cable as your active audio device. Although I have not idea about music devices, I guess additional external devices could work. Your music is pretty good btw :P
So I put new thermal grease from Arctic Silver on my AM3 Phenom 955 with stock fan. It is not overclocked and I was getting 60 degrees Celsius on World of Tanks, which is not a very demanding game. I'm scared to run Prime95 on my rig now lol. Is it because the paste is still setting in? Or should I reapply the paste? I may have added a little too much. I did the pea method where you put a little ball in the middle of the CPU, but it may have been a lot since I haven't applied thermal paste in a while. Also, it may or may not be related but when I was trying to take off the Fan/heatsink off of the CPU before applying paste, the CPU came up with the fan/heatsink. They were so stuck together that it came off the motherboard together and I had to use rubbing alcohol + floss to separate the two.
[QUOTE=RedSor;43315027]I'm not sure about turning them into a perfect surround sound setup, but Virtual Audio Cable lets you create a virtual audio cable (which appears as a single audio device in Windows) and route audio streams through it. It might be possible to route the audio from your speakers and your USB speakers to the virtual cable and then use the virtual cable as your active audio device. Although I have not idea about music devices, I guess additional external devices could work. Your music is pretty good btw :P[/QUOTE] thanks :D I'll give vac a try [editline]26th December 2013[/editline] daaargh cables aren't long enough to pull it off
[QUOTE=FalcoLombardi;43315606]So I put new thermal grease from Arctic Silver on my AM3 Phenom 955 with stock fan. It is not overclocked and I was getting 60 degrees Celsius on World of Tanks, which is not a very demanding game. I'm scared to run Prime95 on my rig now lol. Is it because the paste is still setting in? Or should I reapply the paste? I may have added a little too much. I did the pea method where you put a little ball in the middle of the CPU, but it may have been a lot since I haven't applied thermal paste in a while. Also, it may or may not be related but when I was trying to take off the Fan/heatsink off of the CPU before applying paste, the CPU came up with the fan/heatsink. They were so stuck together that it came off the motherboard together and I had to use rubbing alcohol + floss to separate the two.[/QUOTE] Your CPU came up with the fan/heatsink?! o.O If you put way too much thermal paste on then that could be affecting how well the heat is being transferred, I guess you could watch some videos and compare it to how much you are applying. If you're not already, you could use software to monitor the CPU load and clock and compare it to the current temperature, a solution could be to simply increase your fan speed when you increase the load on the CPU such as when running any game. AMDs "Max Temperature" (with load) for their Phenom CPUs is 62 degrees Celsius, so I guess you're ok in that respect? CPU fan/Heatsink quality may also be a factor, pretty much most motherboard stock one's aren't the best, buying a good performing Heatsink could be an option if you're un-easy with your temperatures.
A friend of mine is having issues with his computer, purchased and built by a local computer shop. He's running a 7870 and AMDFX combo. Three games have issues; Spec Ops: The Line, Far Cry 3, and Crysis. Spec Ops: The Line simply doesn't open whatsoever. Far Cry 3 won't open and CTD's with a DirectX missing .dll error. Crysis launches, goes to a black screen, and freezes up, requiring a restart. Steps taken so far have been: 1. Uninstall/Install AMD drivers 2. Reinstall DirectX. 3. Reinstall Windows Visual C+++. Another game, RAGE, was freezing on a black screen, and somehow is working after doing the previous attempts. Crysis, Far Cry 3, and Spec Ops: The Line are still not working. Does anyone have any ideas as to what the problem may be? I've gone through everything I can think of, the next solution I would have is to reformat and do everything from scratch.
Does anybody know where I can get 16 GBs of RAM at a reasonable price? Everything spiked up last time I was in the market for some. $160 is ridiculous.
You can try some used or refurbished RAM Other than that tough shit, RAM is expensive atm
I don't even meet minimum requirements. I meet MOST of the recommended requirements, numerical ones at 2x to 82.92x the stated value. Do I need to go into detail? If so, I list the requirement comparisons here: [QUOTE=Recommended System Requirements for Battlefield 4]Windows 8, 64bit (exact rec) Two Quad Core processors (double rec) 16GB RAM (8GB rec) Installed already, had DVD drive... 300GB+ out of 1 TB free (30 rec) GT620 with low VRam (idk how low but it's very low), need GT660 3GB or better Direct x 11 (9 minimum rec) I have a keyboard and mouse, and a dual joystick controller if desired I download at 20 Mbps, 80 times the requirement. I upload at a mere 1 or so Mbps, but that's 8 times the requirement.[/QUOTE] Because I meet all other requirements I don't have any question about them, but my graphics card sucks. That is my main concern. Here's the question: Will the recommended graphics cards (GeForce GT660 3GB, my choice) support ULTRA graphics settings on Battle Field 4? [sp]I just bought a GeForce GTX660 3GB in hope.[/sp] [editline]26th December 2013[/editline] If I need to say, I also bought a new [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-182-073"]PSU[/URL]
[QUOTE=WalkingZombie;43319982]I don't even meet minimum requirements. I meet MOST of the recommended requirements, numerical ones at 2x to 82.92x the stated value. Do I need to go into detail? If so, I list the requirement comparisons here: Because I meet all other requirements I don't have any question about them, but my graphics card sucks. That is my main concern. Here's the question: Will the recommended graphics cards (GeForce GT660 3GB, my choice) support ULTRA graphics settings on Battle Field 4? [sp]I just bought a GeForce GTX660 3GB in hope.[/sp] [editline]26th December 2013[/editline] If I need to say, I also bought a new [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-182-073"]PSU[/URL][/QUOTE] Not many places are using BF4 for benchmarking yet, since it's still so unstable, but using BF3 as a guide, a GTX 660 should get you playable framerates at Ultra ([url=http://www.anandtech.com/bench/GPU14/808]FXAA, 1080p[/url]). If you're looking for 1440p or heavy AA, you may need something a bit tougher like a 780. Remember that multiplayer framerates can dip to about half that of a singleplayer game, so you may end up needing to dip things to keep 60fps.
That 620 is your problem, its freaking awful Also that PSU won't be very good imo. 750W is a little low for running dual processors, RAM, a hdd and a gpu and likely a few fans and such. Also I don't like Rosewill that much as a brand. I'd recommend at least 850W, and a corsair, sea-sonic or coolermaster or silverstone Your internet connection is fine The 660 did pretty poorly in benchmark comparisons with other cards. If Battlefield 4 is all you really care about, I could suggest the AMD lineup too. At Ultra with 1920x1200, the R9 270X, which is at the same pricepoint/slightly below the 660, had on average 10 more fps than it. You would see even more increase going to the 280X, but thats like 150 bucks more. The thing is with the AMD cards also is the new "Mantle" program which is AMD-focused and will see more performance increases in BF4 and other games [URL]http://www.amd.com/us/products/technologies/mantle/Pages/mantle.aspx[/URL] [URL]http://www.techspot.com/review/734-battlefield-4-benchmarks/page3.html[/URL]
Well fuck I already bought it. I'm just trying to go for the recommended requirements, which I will meet. Idk if the power unit will support all of it, but... it better! Damn... I was recommended to get that power unit by another techy [editline]26th December 2013[/editline] I had $550 to spend... approximately. Would there have been ANY better option at that budget? I'm not spending my money from the bank...
Would say [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121802[/url] [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171079[/url]
[QUOTE=PollytheParrot;43320369]Would say [URL]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121802[/URL] [URL]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171079[/URL][/QUOTE] Won't work, I won't settle for anything with less than 3 GB of V-Ram [editline]27th December 2013[/editline] Also, that power unit is too big. I'd need a monitor cable adaptor too... just so much wrong with that setup Well, and honestly I'd [U]prefer[/U] to stick with NVidea... [editline]27th December 2013[/editline] Thanks for suggesting, but I suppose I should've provided measurement spec's and all. Well, see... the power unit was too big, the one I linked to fits. I MIGHT be able to fit [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139011"]this[/URL] one in, but I sincerely doubt it... I'm no techy anyway - THIS [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182072"]Power Unit[/URL] will work! My only methods of setup to my monitor are HDMI and VGA. -All of my HDMI Ports are taken up (PS3, XB360, Wii U, and HD TV) -I don't want to buy an adapter to support VGA cables! [editline]27th December 2013[/editline] Honestly, for the price... I think I might cancel the old order and get [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182072"]this[/URL] with [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121802"]that[/URL] I honestly do have a cable adapter, but it might cause latency of a frame or two I honestly am pretty good at being redundant :rolleyes:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/6srUBO4.png[/img] Keep getting this error when trying to turn on F1 2010 No idea what's happening. I'm running windows 8.1
[QUOTE=WalkingZombie;43320779]Won't work, I won't settle for anything with less than 3 GB of V-Ram [editline]27th December 2013[/editline] Also, that power unit is too big. I'd need a monitor cable adaptor too... just so much wrong with that setup Well, and honestly I'd [U]prefer[/U] to stick with NVidea... [editline]27th December 2013[/editline] Thanks for suggesting, but I suppose I should've provided measurement spec's and all. Well, see... the power unit was too big, the one I linked to fits. I MIGHT be able to fit [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139011"]this[/URL] one in, but I sincerely doubt it... I'm no techy anyway - THIS [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182072"]Power Unit[/URL] will work! My only methods of setup to my monitor are HDMI and VGA. -All of my HDMI Ports are taken up (PS3, XB360, Wii U, and HD TV) -I don't want to buy an adapter to support VGA cables! [editline]27th December 2013[/editline] Honestly, for the price... I think I might cancel the old order and get [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182072"]this[/URL] with [URL="http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121802"]that[/URL] I honestly do have a cable adapter, but it might cause latency of a frame or two I honestly am pretty good at being redundant :rolleyes:[/QUOTE] Lol what? They're the nearly the exact same dimensions. They will fit fine except for varying in the single digit millimeters in length The Rosewill you linked: 5.91" x 3.39" x 6.42" (W x H x D) The Coolermaster: 5.9" x 6.7" x 3.4" The Corsair you also linked 5.9"(W) x 3.4"(H) X 7.09"(L) (fyi this is longer than what I suggested) The new Rosewill you linked 5.91" x 3.39" x 6.22" The standard is 5.9" wide by 3.4" tall, with stuff averaging about 6-7" deep. Its a standard for a reason. If you really need something that precisely deep, go with it but keep in mind that Rosewills are less reliable than other brands. I seriously doubt your case doesn't have a tolerance of 7.6 millimeters for a PSU. Honestly I'd love to see a picture of your case with a ruler by the PSU And if you have a DVI cable from your 620, it would work fine with the 270, if not you would need one for a 660 anyways. Unless you already have a VGA cable, you'd need an adapter for any new card you get, really. VGA isn't good enough for modern standards. There is nothing wrong with AMD. For your purposes you'd benefit with it, with higher FPS and lower costs. Also GB of Vram doesn't really mean much. The 270X I linked would beat any 660 you'd bring to the table, but since you don't care, here's a 4GB 270X [URL]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125496[/URL] Honestly you're just good at being ignorant. You said you're not techy but you're not willing to listen to people who are?
[QUOTE=gaboer;43321266][img]http://i.imgur.com/6srUBO4.png[/img] Keep getting this error when trying to turn on F1 2010 No idea what's happening. I'm running windows 8.1[/QUOTE] Checked a steam thread about it, apparently running F1_2010.exe as administrator works, don't run F1_2010_game.exe [editline]27th December 2013[/editline] Codemasters has a history of DRM breaking on newer OSes, TOCA Race Driver 3 is impossible to play on Vista Sp1 and later :v:
[QUOTE=kaze4159;43321517]Checked a steam thread about it, apparently running F1_2010.exe as administrator works, don't run F1_2010_game.exe [editline]27th December 2013[/editline] Codemasters has a history of DRM breaking on newer OSes, TOCA Race Driver 3 is impossible to play on Vista Sp1 and later :v:[/QUOTE] Saw that too, just I have no idea where the run as administrator button is [img]http://i.imgur.com/AaSmUu4.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/iU2IDqR.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/TvoL0z6.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/yTOqhox.png[/img]
[QUOTE=gaboer;43321797]Saw that too, just I have no idea where the run as administrator button is [img]http://i.imgur.com/AaSmUu4.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/iU2IDqR.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/TvoL0z6.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/yTOqhox.png[/img][/QUOTE] Weird, it should be under Compatibility, but you don't have that tab, try making a shortcut to it
Shortcut? Not really sure if it'll work with steam though also it seems it's due to it being a weird .exe file, the other exe has it fine [img]http://i.imgur.com/ogWQkes.png[/img]
After installing the PCI wi-fi adapter, the PC catches wi-fi signal, but it has barely any signal (no bars). It disconnects and connects over and over. Anyone knows what I could be doing wrong?
[QUOTE=Zero_;43321989]After installing the PCI wi-fi adapter, the PC catches wi-fi signal, but it has barely any signal (no bars). It disconnects and connects over and over. Anyone knows what I could be doing wrong?[/QUOTE] Did you attach the little antennas? Most PCI/PCIe wifi cards use them.
[QUOTE=gman003-main;43323394]Did you attach the little antennas? Most PCI/PCIe wifi cards use them.[/QUOTE] Yeah, I got it screwed as far as it can go.
[QUOTE=gaboer;43321797]Saw that too, just I have no idea where the run as administrator button is [img]http://i.imgur.com/AaSmUu4.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/iU2IDqR.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/TvoL0z6.png[/img] [img]http://i.imgur.com/yTOqhox.png[/img][/QUOTE] Running an .exe "as administrator" usually means to right click .exe and select Run As Administrator. Although if the user account your are using on Windows IS the administrator then you shouldn't need to do this. [editline]27th December 2013[/editline] [QUOTE=Zero_;43321989]After installing the PCI wi-fi adapter, the PC catches wi-fi signal, but it has barely any signal (no bars). It disconnects and connects over and over. Anyone knows what I could be doing wrong?[/QUOTE] I can't think of anything you could be doing wrong. How far away is your PC from the Wifi source? The Wifi adapter and Wifi source may simply not have a good enough combined range to reach each other and maintain a solid connection. If they are both relatively close to each other E.g. in the next room or whatever, a slightly ridiculous factor such as what the walls of your house contain could be interrupting the signal. Both of these things could be solved with signal boosters placed around your house, if moving them isn't an option. To rule out all additional factors, you could put the Wifi source and the Wifi adapter right next to each other, if the signal isn't constant and/or "Excellent" then you know it is an issue directly relating to the Wifi adapter.
[QUOTE=RedSor;43323737]Running an .exe "as administrator" usually means to right click .exe and select Run As Administrator. Although if the user account your are using on Windows IS the administrator then you shouldn't need to do this.[/QUOTE] You often need to do this.
Quick Q: I have an SSD I just got. If I install windows 8 on it, I can dual boot between that W8 install and my W7 install on my current HDD with no issue right? I'm planning on migrating to W8 but figured it would be helpful to do this to make it so in the meantime before I'm fully migrated, I can boot up W7 and still use that. I can also just transfer stuff like my user and app data folders while I'm in W7 to my W8 install, right? This will make it really easy to migrate stuff like program settings so, until I get to the point where I have most of what I want in my W8 install and can just delete my W7 install from my HDD, right?
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