The "Quick Questions that does not Deserve a Thread"...Thread. V4
7,787 replies, posted
Forgot about that. I remember learning it at Uni now, I'd use that from now on.
Everytime I try to install ubuntu, installation starts and I get the message
[code]unable to find medium containing live file system[/code]
I am trying to install it on a usb drive, how can I fix this?
I want to invest in a new wireless card but I'm worried about power usage.
My PSU is at 600W and my GPU requires 550W. I know a wireless card can't take 50W but is there any way of knowing other than adding up numbers how many W you have left?
[QUOTE=Boarta;43689100]I want to invest in a new wireless card but I'm worried about power usage.
My PSU is at 600W and my GPU requires 550W. I know a wireless card can't take 50W but is there any way of knowing other than adding up numbers how many W you have left?[/QUOTE]
No GPU requires 550W on its own. Even massive dual-GPU cards never draw more than 300W. The 550W is an estimate of your total system, including the GPU, and it's usually a very liberal estimate.
And no, AFAIK there's no way to see your total wattage other than adding everything up, or perhaps hooking your full system up to a Kill-A-Watt or something.
PS: If the card is a half-height PCIe x1 card, it can only draw 10W; if it's any other card except a GPU, it can only pull 25W (GPUs are allowed to pull 75W). Both of those are only over the PCIe bus itself; if they have additional connectors, it can be far higher (a six-pin or a molex connector can provide 75W, an eight-pin 150W).
Albeit without significant overclocking, people run itx builds with a titan and a 4670k on a 450W psu all the time so you are likely fine.
[QUOTE=Phrozen99;43688468]Everytime I try to install ubuntu, installation starts and I get the message
[code]unable to find medium containing live file system[/code]
I am trying to install it on a usb drive, how can I fix this?[/QUOTE]
Are you using a USB 3.0 port? Try USB 2.0.
Does anyone know if the Logitech f310 controller works with Windows 7 64bit? because my f710 doesn't work with it...
whats the best way to make a bootable usb? I dont have a disc reader on my computer and I need to reinstall win 7
Trying to allow file sharing over the internet between my GF's desktop and her netbook. I've done it LAN easily enough, but what would be the fastest way to do so over the web?
[QUOTE=Rankzerox;43699690]whats the best way to make a bootable usb? I dont have a disc reader on my computer and I need to reinstall win 7[/QUOTE]
The usb installer tool at [URL="http://www.pendrivelinux.com/"]http://www.pendrivelinux.com/[/URL] works for win7 iso's aswell.
I don't think it's a problem, though I thought I'd get a second opinion.
I want to wire up three USB ports in my car (One in the front, one in the back and one dedicated for a dashcam) and I want to use one 12V to 5V converter.
So I found this, which looks pretty decent:
[URL]http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-DC-Converter-Power-Supply-Regulartor-Stable-12V-24V-Step-down-to-5V-25W-/251275879637?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a8135a4d5&_uhb=1[/URL]
It should be plenty of wattage for a little dashcam and a couple of phones. The voltage is good, though assuming I have the right resistors hooked up to tell the phone to charge, it should work. Phones and tablets should only pull down as much power as they need, so hooking them up to a 25 watt power supply shouldn't hurt them, right?
[QUOTE=benjgvps;43708662]I don't think it's a problem, though I thought I'd get a second opinion.
I want to wire up three USB ports in my car (One in the front, one in the back and one dedicated for a dashcam) and I want to use one 12V to 5V converter.
So I found this, which looks pretty decent:
[URL]http://www.ebay.ca/itm/DC-DC-Converter-Power-Supply-Regulartor-Stable-12V-24V-Step-down-to-5V-25W-/251275879637?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a8135a4d5&_uhb=1[/URL]
It should be plenty of wattage for a little dashcam and a couple of phones. The voltage is good, though assuming I have the right resistors hooked up to tell the phone to charge, it should work. Phones and tablets should only pull down as much power as they need, so hooking them up to a 25 watt power supply shouldn't hurt them, right?[/QUOTE]
If you're quite savvy with electronics and circuitry, most of the work is already done for you. I'm not too 'savvy' but could you botch one or two of these in order to get what you want?
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5V-Black-Micro-Belkin-USB-Car-Charger-For-iPhone-iPad-iPod-Nokia-Samsung-Galaxy-/131101489232?pt=UK_MobilePhones_MobilePhoneAccessories_MobilePhoneChargers&hash=item1e8641f850[/url]
Obviously you'd need to buy one with higher amperage, I've seen a few with 3.1 amps for iPads but will probably work with any other tablet/device. But you could take them apart, keep the bits you need and wire it into your own system and ports?
Steam can't login.
Everything else can login.
There is a connection.
Steam works for some, but not for others.
Why, how? When? I've tried rebooting, relaunching, shutting through task manager processes, nothing works.
[QUOTE=Bat-shit;43711957]Steam can't login.
Everything else can login.
There is a connection.
Steam works for some, but not for others.
Why, how? When? I've tried rebooting, relaunching, shutting through task manager processes, nothing works.[/QUOTE]
I'm having the exact same problem at the moment, if that's any consolation. Seems to be an issue at their end.
Anyway, I contacted ASUS support about my laptop keyboard problem and they said I could ship my laptop to their care center. The two problems I have with this are :
1. I have to ship the laptop from Finland to Sweden, during which I won't be able to use it, obviously
2. They don't know whether the issue is covered by warranty or not until they've examined it
So, instead of shipping the laptop to them I've thought of buying a replacement keyboard from eBay for about $20 and replacing it myself (something I coincidentally did a lot last summer). There's the risk that I'll ruin my warranty by doing this, but I've had this laptop for a little over a year, so I've been wondering whether if it's worth the risk.
EDIT:
Ok, I read that replacing the keyboard in an Asus notebook won't actually void the warranty. Can anyone confirm this?
EDIT 2:
Detached the keyboard and didn't see any "warranty voided if torn off" stickers on my way in. Also, if you have a Nordic keyboard or a keyboard with special letters (Ä, Ö, Å, etc.), purchase an UK/US version of the keyboard instead. The only difference between the UK and Nordic keyboards are the labels on some of the keys, otherwise they are nearly identical.
So I just got a new GPU (R9 290X) and I'm having this strange problem. Basically my cursor is fine and normal when it is just the arrow shape, but when I move it onto some text and it becomes the I shape it gets about 80% bigger (and goes back to normal when I take it off). The same thing happens when it changes to some other shapes too (middle clicking in chrome to scroll).
I reinstalled windows when I added the card so there shouldn't be any left over drivers or anything interfering. Does anyone have any idea why this is or what I can do?
Edit: Looked around, seems I'm not the only one suffering from this. Thank god there's nothing wrong with my card, and its only a very minor inconvenience so whatever, hopefully AMD will fix it soon.
[QUOTE=Adamhully;43709486]If you're quite savvy with electronics and circuitry, most of the work is already done for you. I'm not too 'savvy' but could you botch one or two of these in order to get what you want?
[URL]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5V-Black-Micro-Belkin-USB-Car-Charger-For-iPhone-iPad-iPod-Nokia-Samsung-Galaxy-/131101489232?pt=UK_MobilePhones_MobilePhoneAccessories_MobilePhoneChargers&hash=item1e8641f850[/URL]
Obviously you'd need to buy one with higher amperage, I've seen a few with 3.1 amps for iPads but will probably work with any other tablet/device. But you could take them apart, keep the bits you need and wire it into your own system and ports?[/QUOTE]
I could, though if I recall it's more efficient to have a single converter. There isn't a ton of great places in the dash to put things, so I would like it to be as maintenance free as possible by removing male USB ends and soldering everything up. That way I could just stick it behind everything and not worry about stuff coming unplugged. For the dashcam, I should be able to just wire it directly since I don't think they're that complex and power hungry that they would require circuitry to verify that the charger is capable of giving it more than standard 500mAh.
For smartphones, it seems like you need to attach a few resistors to the USB data lines to tell the phone that it can supply more than 500mAh. I'm just not sure if I'd damage it by putting in a combination of resistors that tell the phone "Hey, I can supply you with 1 Amp!" when there's like, 5 Amps available.
Is there any way to get rid of this fucking ad in Skype? It's the one with "two friends who've never met"/.
I purchased a monitor mount that drills into the wall, I never ended up using it for my computer monitor.
This monitor mount supports up to 33 lbs (15 kg), and 10"-24" screens (25-61 cm).
I recently purchased a 39 inch (99 cm) TV that only weighs 20 lbs (9 kg) which supports VESA 100x100, which my monitor mount also supports.
Why is the monitor mount limited by dimensions up to 24", and why can't I mount my TV which is well within the weight limit?
I don't understand why the dimensions of the monitor matter at all, shouldn't the only problem with mounting be its weight? Obviously I don't want to just mount it in case there's something I don't understand, definitely not interested in seeing it break.
TV: [url]http://store.vizio.com/e390ia1.html[/url]
The monitor mount doesn't seem to be available on Monoprice anymore, but it mounts on the wall with two screws.
[b]Found the answer: * Note that the display screen size is only an approximation. Your display is compatible with this mount as long as it has a VESA mounting pattern and weight that fit within the size and weight limits listed above. [/b]
Does anyone on here have Google Glass? Is it worth it? I'm about to order a pair, but I wanna get some first hand experience first.
Does anyone know when the consumer Oculus Rift will be out?
expected but not confirmed to be late 2014/early 2015
Is there a cheap-ish and good way to capture video and pictures from my PS3?
[QUOTE=Phrozen99;43726832]Does anyone on here have Google Glass? Is it worth it? I'm about to order a pair, but I wanna get some first hand experience first.[/QUOTE]
Well I went ahead and bought it. It should be here next week, and I'll probably do a little review.
is there a card in the ~$200-250 range that could outperform my 6870 enough to be worth it?
i'm learning towards a nvidia card, but i'd be open to another amd
Jerry, look into a GTX760 or an AMD 7950. Quite significant performance boost for a good price.
What's a good multifunction laser printer (copy/scan/fax)?
I bought a Gigabyte Force K7 stealth a month ago, and it's been alright up until now, where I press certain keys and it also 'activates' the key above it, or next to it, for example, the n key would activate the h key, and vice versa, along with b & g, and the right arrow key and the numpad 0 key.
I have no idea what's wrong.
[QUOTE=Ca5bah;43759449]Jerry, look into a GTX760 or an AMD 7950. Quite significant performance boost for a good price.[/QUOTE]
thanks for the tip, i was looking at these two EVGA 760s
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130933[/url]
[url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130932[/url]
i'm guessing the Super Clocked would be the better purchase since it's on sale for the same price as the regular and has free shipping?
-snip-
does anyone know what ssd caddy i need to replace the cd drive in a lenovo ideapad y510p with a samsung 840 evo?
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