• The "Quick Questions that does not Deserve a Thread"...Thread. V4
    7,787 replies, posted
[QUOTE=alien_guy;45546032]I have 2|4|2|4 in my pc and its fine, the sticks need to be the same make though.[/QUOTE] So in other words, because my RAM is this... [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428[/url] I would want something like these two... [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428[/url] [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313344[/url] By virtue of this? [quote] DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Timing 9-9-9-24 Cas Latency 9 Voltage 1.5V [/quote]
[QUOTE=SGTNAPALM;45546146]So in other words, because my RAM is this... [URL]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428[/URL] I would want something like these two... [URL]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428[/URL] [URL]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313344[/URL] By virtue of this?[/QUOTE] just get the higher capacity version of whatever you currently have.
[QUOTE=Chizbang;45535419]A friend was browsing through eBay and sent me this: [url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/128GB-Max-Black-Swivel-USB-2-0-Flash-Drive-Memory-Stick-Pen-Same-Day-Shipping-/151270921777?pt=UK_Computing_FlashDrives_SM&hash=item2338731631[/url] What the hell do they mean by upgraded units? Like... Wut?[/QUOTE] It means they're probably 2GB drives that show up as 128GB and when you've written over the capacity of the drive it will just error out. The description screams fake.
[QUOTE=Levelog;45537862]It may not be what you want, but you could however do the opposite and have a batch file set to startUP and clear the previous sessions temp files and such.[/QUOTE] That would (almost) effectively be the same thing (it'd still show up in a folder if I booted into Linux but I have a real /tmp there), except Scheduled Tasks apparently got removed in some recent Windows version so I can't do that either.
[QUOTE=FlamingSpaz;45548571]It means they're probably 2GB drives that show up as 128GB and when you've written over the capacity of the drive it will just error out. The description screams fake.[/QUOTE] Definitely screams "We put a disclaimer on everything that will most definitely go wrong"
[QUOTE=SGTNAPALM;45546146]So in other words, because my RAM is this... [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428[/url] I would want something like these two... [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428[/url] [url]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313344[/url] By virtue of this?[/QUOTE] I've always heard that you never want to mix and match RAM because of the way RAM is paired. Apparently, it's never quite exactly the same, so they just pair chips that are similar enough to work together as efficiently as possible, and sell those as same-spec kits. Then again, I don't know how true that is.
[QUOTE=woolio1;45549916]I've always heard that you never want to mix and match RAM because of the way RAM is paired. Apparently, it's never quite exactly the same, so they just pair chips that are similar enough to work together as efficiently as possible, and sell those as same-spec kits. Then again, I don't know how true that is.[/QUOTE] Not even RAM from the same batch are the same, which is why they sell them in matched pairs. There is a lot of over exaggeration about matching up your RAM perfectly though.
When I log into my normal account on my desktop it goes to a white screen and a cursor. I can pop open task manager but that's about it. I can log into my computers admin account normally. Shutting down my computer short of hold-down-power-button doesn't do anything either, just goes to an infinite version of the standard five second "shutting down" screen. My keyboard isn't recognized during the 30 second "would you like to boot to safe mode" bit which is really annoying. Any ideas?
[QUOTE=FlamingSpaz;45548571]It means they're probably 2GB drives that show up as 128GB and when you've written over the capacity of the drive it will just error out. The description screams fake.[/QUOTE] Do not buy it. [URL="http://feedback.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=banaa_ltd&myworld=true&items=25&iid=-1&de=off&which=negative&interval=365"]http://feedback.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=banaa_ltd&myworld=true&items=25&iid=-1&de=off&which=negative&interval=365[/URL] [IMG]http://imgur.com/c0sU5nR.png[/IMG]
Almost 10,000 positive ratings vs 62 total negative. It is odd though that his negative ratings skyrocketed like 30% in the past month. It's still a ridiculously small number, however. [editline]31st July 2014[/editline] Also I'm having an issue getting my bios to boot up from one of my hard drives. I have to manually select the hard drive each time, since there's no windows installation on my other hard drive. I've tried unplugging the secondary hdd and it boots fine, but as soon as I plug it back in, it tries to boot from it. Any idea how to fix this?
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/JwR9Gwv.png[/IMG] Stayed up all night doing my first REAL overclock; got to 3.7GHz with the stock cooler(not sure if stable, haven't test with BurnTest or anything yet, but no bluescreen or anything yet and everything in and of itself seems to be fine) but the idle temps seem a little high...(typing this its at 58 degrees) Thoughts? [editline]31st July 2014[/editline] Did BurnTest and in the first few minutes it hit 100-102 degrees celsius(according to RealTemp). I'm gonna clean my cooler and try it again. Or should I not be worried? [editline]31st July 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=Hervey;45552076]Almost 10,000 positive ratings vs 62 total negative. It is odd though that his negative ratings skyrocketed like 30% in the past month. It's still a ridiculously small number, however. [editline]31st July 2014[/editline] Also I'm having an issue getting my bios to boot up from one of my hard drives. I have to manually select the hard drive each time, since there's no windows installation on my other hard drive. I've tried unplugging the secondary hdd and it boots fine, but as soon as I plug it back in, it tries to boot from it. Any idea how to fix this?[/QUOTE] You should be able to go into the BIOS and set the boot priority to boot from the drive you want. This could be caused by a Windows/Linux/whatever OS that may have been installed on it before as there might still be something written to the MBR of the drive.
[QUOTE=SteelSliver;45552901][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/JwR9Gwv.png[/IMG] Stayed up all night doing my first REAL overclock; got to 3.7GHz with the stock cooler(not sure if stable, haven't test with BurnTest or anything yet, but no bluescreen or anything yet and everything in and of itself seems to be fine) but the idle temps seem a little high...(typing this its at 58 degrees) Thoughts? [editline]31st July 2014[/editline] Did BurnTest and in the first few minutes it hit 100-102 degrees celsius(according to RealTemp). I'm gonna clean my cooler and try it again. Or should I not be worried? [/QUOTE] personally, I start worrying if my CPU reaches 70c. 65c is the highest temperature I'm comfortable with. overclocking on the stock cooler is not a good idea at all and if I were you, I'd revert it as fast as possible. the i3 550 is designed to only be able to take 72c max, any higher and you're slowly murdering it. bottom line, never overclock using the stock cooler as it's simply not made to be able to dissipate the excess heat caused by overclocking
[QUOTE=PredGD;45554312]personally, I start worrying if my CPU reaches 70c. 65c is the highest temperature I'm comfortable with. overclocking on the stock cooler is not a good idea at all and if I were you, I'd revert it as fast as possible. the i3 550 is designed to only be able to take 72c max, any higher and you're slowly murdering it. bottom line, never overclock using the stock cooler as it's simply not made to be able to dissipate the excess heat caused by overclocking[/QUOTE] That's what I thought really. I read somewhere that I could easily get the clockspeed to 3.9GHz with the stock cooler(this was an Clarkdale tutorial) and I just wanted to see how far I could get. I'm still probably gonna clean the cooler and bring it back down. The cooler hasn't been cleaned very well in so long and it'd be good to give it some extra fan dissipation. I knew that when I saw 100 degrees that I had a problem. Thanks for the insight. Edit: I cleaned the cooler and the temps on full load are maxing 84 degrees at 3.7GHz. This is pretty good, right? Its not boiling water anymore. I'm gonna try to get it lower.
My personal opinion is that if it's hot enough to cause water to boil, then it's probably too hot to function without causing some form of damage.
[QUOTE=papkee;45555743]My personal opinion is that if it's hot enough to cause water to boil, then it's probably too hot to function without causing some form of damage.[/QUOTE] Water boils at 100C. If you're letting your CPU get that high on a regular basis, you're doing something seriously wrong, pal. [editline]31st July 2014[/editline] [QUOTE=SteelSliver;45555678]That's what I thought really. I read somewhere that I could easily get the clockspeed to 3.9GHz with the stock cooler(this was an Clarkdale tutorial) and I just wanted to see how far I could get. I'm still probably gonna clean the cooler and bring it back down. The cooler hasn't been cleaned very well in so long and it'd be good to give it some extra fan dissipation. I knew that when I saw 100 degrees that I had a problem. Thanks for the insight. Edit: I cleaned the cooler and the temps on full load are maxing 84 degrees at 3.7GHz. This is pretty good, right? Its not boiling water anymore. I'm gonna try to get it lower.[/QUOTE] Just invest in a better CPU cooler and a tube of thermal paste. LGA 1156 is an older CPU socket, but the [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065]Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus[/url] and [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4DA1GN6641]Arctic Silver 5[/url] should do the trick for you.
[QUOTE=Lordgeorge16;45556781]Water boils at 100C. If you're letting your CPU get that high on a regular basis, you're doing something seriously wrong, pal. [editline]31st July 2014[/editline] Just invest in a better CPU cooler and a tube of thermal paste. LGA 1156 is an older CPU socket, but the [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065]Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus[/url] and [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4DA1GN6641]Arctic Silver 5[/url] should do the trick for you.[/QUOTE] Nah, I don't really want to spend any more money on the CPU and motherboard. I'm gonna get a Z97 board and a 4670k as soon as I can so I don't want to spend money on better cooling until I get a CPU that's designed for such a task. Also, I got it to run at 3.7GHz at max temps of 70-80 so that seems comfortable enough for me and idle temps of 40-50.. I just wanted to get as much out of this CPU for now. Thanks for the suggestion!
The 212 evo works with 1156 too [editline]31st July 2014[/editline] You can get the 212 evo and then move it to your 4670k too
[QUOTE=SteelSliver;45552901]You should be able to go into the BIOS and set the boot priority to boot from the drive you want. This could be caused by a Windows/Linux/whatever OS that may have been installed on it before as there might still be something written to the MBR of the drive.[/QUOTE] That's the thing, if I go into bios and set it as boot priority, it automatically reverts whenever I plug in the second hdd.
I have a few questions about RAM. I made the mistake of not getting enough RAM when I build this computer and I want to get more but I don't know how much more I should get or how I should go about it. Here is my current build: Graphics: [url=http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...25MHZ%201024MB]GeForce GTX 460[/url] Motherboard: [url=http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16813128409]GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P[/url] Processor: [url=http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16819115215]Intel Core i5-750[/url] Ram: [url=http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...2800%204GB%202]G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB)[/url] I do a lot of multitasking stuff like hammer, chrome, and HL2/Garry's mod and most games tend to choke really bad on the lack of RAM. I do plan on eventually upgrading my build so it would be best if i get enough to work for a higher end build. Would 8GB be a decent amount? For my needs or should I go all the way with 16GB? And should I keep my old RAM and just add to is or buy 2 8GBs and lose the old ones? Lastly, there wouldn't be any problem with using RAM from some old pre-builts (probably 2 1GB or 512MB) alongside my current RAM in the meantime right? Just until I buy some more.
[QUOTE=highvoltage;45558615]I have a few questions about RAM. I made the mistake of not getting enough RAM when I build this computer and I want to get more but I don't know how much more I should get or how I should go about it. Here is my current build: Graphics: [url=http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...25MHZ%201024MB]GeForce GTX 460[/url] Motherboard: [url=http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16813128409]GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD4P[/url] Processor: [url=http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16819115215]Intel Core i5-750[/url] Ram: [url=http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...2800%204GB%202]G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB)[/url] I do a lot of multitasking stuff like hammer, chrome, and HL2/Garry's mod and most games tend to choke really bad on the lack of RAM. I do plan on eventually upgrading my build so it would be best if i get enough to work for a higher end build. Would 8GB be a decent amount? For my needs or should I go all the way with 16GB? And should I keep my old RAM and just add to is or buy 2 8GBs and lose the old ones? Lastly, there wouldn't be any problem with using RAM from some old pre-builts (probably 2 1GB or 512MB) alongside my current RAM in the meantime right? Just until I buy some more.[/QUOTE] Most current CPUs use something called a "dual-channel memory controller". Basically, there are two separate channels for memory, and they operate independently. You can have multiple sticks of RAM on one channel, but they'll operate at the lowest common setting. So yes, for right now I would stick both current sticks on the same channel, then a pair of matching sticks on the other channel (this should be indicated on the motherboard, but I can't make it out from the pictures on Newegg). Naturally it has to be the same basic type of memory (DDR3), but you probably knew that, just covering all bases here. When you do get new memory, get a pair and use it to replace the oldest memory sticks. Having the 2x2GB remain shouldn't hurt you compared to just having the 2x8GB.
I need some advice selling my computer. I haven't sold any used items before so I don't know where to begin. The biggest problem is that the graphics card is dead and would need to be replaced, but I can't afford to buy a card before selling it, even if it would turn a profit. It's a solid quality build, with a 2500k easily overclocked to 4.4GHz. It ran fine with only 4GB of RAM, but someone buying it would probably want more if not eventually and I wouldn't be buying that before I sell it. Where could I go to sell it?
[QUOTE=Abrown516;45559186]I need some advice selling my computer. I haven't sold any used items before so I don't know where to begin. The biggest problem is that the graphics card is dead and would need to be replaced, but I can't afford to buy a card before selling it, even if it would turn a profit. It's a solid quality build, with a 2500k easily overclocked to 4.4GHz. It ran fine with only 4GB of RAM, but someone buying it would probably want more if not eventually and I wouldn't be buying that before I sell it. Where could I go to sell it?[/QUOTE] I5 2500k is a hot buy, I would go on PCPARTPICKER and calculate the worth of the parts new, then subtract a certain percent. You can also try baking the GPU. If it's dead, you have nothing to lose. Some people have revived them by doing that.
[QUOTE=Original User;45559253]I5 2500k is a hot buy, I would go on PCPARTPICKER and calculate the worth of the parts new, then subtract a certain percent. You can also try baking the GPU. If it's dead, you have nothing to lose. Some people have revived them by doing that.[/QUOTE] Baking is a terrible idea, a heatgun is a much better way. But I agree with the rest. Try searching hardware trading forums like overclock.net for current market prices
[QUOTE=Original User;45559253]I5 2500k is a hot buy, I would go on PCPARTPICKER and calculate the worth of the parts new, then subtract a certain percent. You can also try baking the GPU. If it's dead, you have nothing to lose. Some people have revived them by doing that.[/QUOTE] That would give me a good start. But what would be a good "certain percent"? [QUOTE=Levelog;45559637]Baking is a terrible idea, a heatgun is a much better way. But I agree with the rest. Try searching hardware trading forums like overclock.net for current market prices[/QUOTE] I don't have access to a heatgun so I'd have to give that idea a miss.
How come I rarely, if ever hear things described in microseconds. (in the field of computing) Its always either miliseconds or nanoseconds.
I've been having some issues with my router for the past weeks. every 2-3 days it'll drop the connection for no reason that I can think of. it ends with me having to restart the router to make sure the connection gets through. any ideas what the cause of it could be? [editline]1st August 2014[/editline] forgot to add, the router is a zyxel P2602HWT
[QUOTE=PredGD;45563442]I've been having some issues with my router for the past weeks. every 2-3 days it'll drop the connection for no reason that I can think of. it ends with me having to restart the router to make sure the connection gets through. any ideas what the cause of it could be? [editline]1st August 2014[/editline] forgot to add, the router is a zyxel P2602HWT[/QUOTE] Does it feel warm when it crashes? It might be overheating.
[QUOTE=Demache;45563508]Does it feel warm when it crashes? It might be overheating.[/QUOTE] it feels slightly hotter than my hand right after I rebooted it. I can still access the admin panel for it when the connection drops though, so that means it's still alive right?
[QUOTE=PredGD;45563556]it feels slightly hotter than my hand right after I rebooted it. I can still access the admin panel for it when the connection drops though, so that means it's still alive right?[/QUOTE] The router itself is probably still running but the modem isn't able to hold the signal. Heat does really wacky things to network equipment.
[QUOTE=Demache;45563596]The router itself is probably still running but the modem isn't able to hold the signal. Heat does really wacky things to network equipment.[/QUOTE] is there a way to confirm if it's overheating? all I can tell is that it's slightly warmer than my hand which sounds okay to me doubt there's any thermal sensors in routers that I could read of off?
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