The "Quick Questions that does not Deserve a Thread"...Thread. V4
7,787 replies, posted
[QUOTE=imMonkeyGOD;40949271]What's a good computer brand for school work and internet browsing?[/QUOTE]
Desktop or laptop?
[QUOTE=jetboy;40949809]Desktop or laptop?[/QUOTE]
Desktop
[QUOTE=imMonkeyGOD;40949901]Desktop[/QUOTE]
self bulit is best otherwise dell, hp
So I bought a pear of Turtle Beach X12s for 10 bucks from a flea market. The headphone part works fine, volume knob is a bit wonky, and the major problem comes with the microphone. When I listen to it with the mic loopback thing on the control thing, it sounds fine. When I listen to it on windows, it will emit a horrible screeching sound and get continuously louder. In any reasonable audio recording program, it just comes up as some loud static.
Any ideas? I don't [I]need[/I] the microphone, but it would be nice to have.
[QUOTE=AugustBurnsRed;40946896]that's what she said
anyway i think you should pick a different case if you're going to OC, you're going to cook your shit[/QUOTE]
I realized the silverstone cooler is actually MADE for my case series:
[IMG]http://filesmelt.com/dl/nt06s-021.jpg[/IMG]
It blows up into the psu!
Well I'm gonna try to manage the temperature so it never goes over 65c, is that too hot to be pumping through a psu?
Ok so I bought some Sony MDR-V6 headphones, and they just arrived today. For some reason, they only work in one ear and the right ear is scrambled and shitty, as if the earpiece itself was damaged. I checked it out with a second (shitty) pair of headphones to be sure, and they experience the exact same thing.
My last set of headphones were USB, so I guess it might be a problem with the audio jack? I'm using Realtek drivers, which I've heard can cause some problems. I'd vastly prefer it be a software issue than a hardware one, hence my asking.
Thinking about just getting an audio jack to USB adapter, but I want to know all my options before then. Help would be much appreciated.
[editline]8th June 2013[/editline]
Just tested them with this Philips MP3 player I have, and they work fine, so it's definitely not the headphones.
[QUOTE=Ironic Man;40952199]I realized the silverstone cooler is actually MADE for my case series:
[IMG]http://filesmelt.com/dl/nt06s-021.jpg[/IMG]
It blows up into the psu!
Well I'm gonna try to manage the temperature so it never goes over 65c, is that too hot to be pumping through a psu?[/QUOTE]
The PSU will be fine, it's the more fragile components like the CPU and GPU that will run hot, 65C is a good target but don't panic if it pushes 70-80C doing shit like Furmark or Prime95, they'll survive
[QUOTE=HolyCrapAWalrus;40944282]I don't know why you emphasized the definitely, the capstone series is higher quality[/QUOTE]
The Rosewill is higher quality than the XFX? No.
[QUOTE=DTkach;40952806]Ok so I bought some Sony MDR-V6 headphones, and they just arrived today. For some reason, they only work in one ear and the right ear is scrambled and shitty, as if the earpiece itself was damaged. I checked it out with a second (shitty) pair of headphones to be sure, and they experience the exact same thing.
My last set of headphones were USB, so I guess it might be a problem with the audio jack? I'm using Realtek drivers, which I've heard can cause some problems. I'd vastly prefer it be a software issue than a hardware one, hence my asking.
Thinking about just getting an audio jack to USB adapter, but I want to know all my options before then. Help would be much appreciated.
[editline]8th June 2013[/editline]
Just tested them with this Philips MP3 player I have, and they work fine, so it's definitely not the headphones.[/QUOTE]
Turns out there was another headphone jack in the front of the computer I'm dumb as fuck.
Few days ago I looked at my processes and I noticed a weird process open, stij.exe. After some research I found out it's a virus that attacks the space on your computer causing lag and slow computer performance. All "solutions" I've found are just links to some bullshit programs that don't fix it. I've tried ending the process and deleting the file that's located in C:/Windows/SysWOW64/jmdp, but it comes back in a few minutes. Any way at all I can remove this?
Edit: Probably doesn't really fit in this thread but I don't feel like creating a thread for this elsewhere.
Boot up in safe mode and run Malwarebytes.
[QUOTE=jetboy;40955534]Boot up in safe mode and run Malwarebytes.[/QUOTE]
Wow it worked, thanks a lot.
I don't really know where else I could post this, and I don't want to make a thread for it since I don't have to.
So basically, I'm majoring in IT at my technical college, and all next week we're working on deploying Windows 7 over a network of machines. I figured I'd get a head start on the labs and do a few of them on the weekend. Well, I initially followed the instructions in the lab book. I created a Windows PE image and burned it to a CD like I was supposed to, but booting to it gave me an error saying I needed the 32-bit version.
So I fixed that, but then I got an error:
[QUOTE]0xc000000f required device is inaccessible[/QUOTE]
So I googled it, and discovered a whole plethora of additional steps that weren't covered in the official WAIK documentation OR the lab book. After following them and re-creating the WinPE iso, I still got the same error. At this point in time I'm just pissed off, and I really REALLY want a fix for it. Googling leads me nowhere.
tl;dr how do I make a Windows PE boot disc that actually fucking works?
EDIT
[URL="http://puu.sh/3bCGN.png"]I did find this while googling my problem[/URL], but I don't really know what this guy is actually saying. I tried copying the winpe.wim to \source\ and renamed it to boot.wim, but I still got the same error. I don't know if it's because I copied the wrong file or what.
[QUOTE=Maximum Mod;40949022]I'm on a wireless connection and I don't really know the lan speeds, if that's what you're asking
Also, how would subtitles work?
Update: I've been looking at the DS213J and I've found that at a price which I think would be acceptable. Do you think that it would be better for me? Comparison [url=http://www.synology.com/products/compare_spec.php?lang=us&product_id_list=124%2C89#compare_show_top]here[/url].[/QUOTE]
Any ideas?
My D drive has disappeared, what do?
[editline]9th June 2013[/editline]
someone had disconnected it completely
This isn't supposed to be this hot, is it?
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/5Vs6lHs.png[/IMG]
No
May as well start using that to cook
[QUOTE=lord0war;40961214]This isn't supposed to be this hot, is it?
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/5Vs6lHs.png[/IMG][/QUOTE]
It's a visual bug, it's not actually that hot.
[QUOTE=SataniX;40961673]It's a visual bug, it's not actually that hot.[/QUOTE]
I also have a drive that shows as 128C. The number is a good sign that it's an error - powers of two, or one less than a power of two, are common "defaults". 128 is two to the seventh power, which means it fits in certain types of signed eight-bit integers. Thus, it's a logical "default value" for the hard drive to use if it does not have a temperature probe.
Hey guys a friend wants to get a new PC building it ourselves haven't done one in awhile so was wondering what the best SSD is these days in your opinions as far as bang for your buck goes, not looking for the best fuck-off expensive thing. Probably something around 250 GB to boot Windows and applications quick and the odd game that would benefit from loading quick, will reuse old HDD and get a new one as far as storage goes.
[QUOTE=64fanatic;40965401]Hey guys a friend wants to get a new PC building it ourselves haven't done one in awhile so was wondering what the best SSD is these days in your opinions as far as bang for your buck goes, not looking for the best fuck-off expensive thing. Probably something around 250 GB to boot Windows and applications quick and the odd game that would benefit from loading quick, will reuse old HDD and get a new one as far as storage goes.[/QUOTE]
[URL]http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147192[/URL]
This Samsung 840 Pro is badass as fuck, Swefox can vouch for this. or was it somebody else... Can't remember even forummaster will approve.
Yesssss
Get the Samsung 840 Prooooooooooo
My 840 Pro is the best drive I've ever used. love it
I'm transferring data between 2 partitions of the same hard drive, it's only getting about 15MB/s, shouldn't it be going faster?
What's the difference between a Western Digital Black and a Western Digital Blue HDD?
[QUOTE=cardfan212;40967280]What's the difference between a Western Digital Black and a Western Digital Blue HDD?[/QUOTE]
Blues only go up to 1TB so they lack in the capacity department, and blacks are more performance/enthusiast oriented so they're a lot faster. Blues are cheaper than blacks however. Blacks run a little hotter than blues but if you have adequate cooling they're better.
Basically if you're looking for a fast, high capacity drive to play and store a crapload of steam games and media on then Blacks are what you're looking for. Right now Blacks can go up to 4TB. Personally I have two 2TB Blacks in my system, along with a 640GB Blue and an old 500GB Seagate with a 1TB external.
If you just want storage though, look at the Reds. They go up to 3TB (but in Q3 WD is coming out with 4TB reds, and in Q4 they're coming out with 5TB reds). Personally I'm going to wait for Q4 and pick up four 5TB reds and make an HTPC for all of my media. Red's are very cool running so you don't need any cooling. I'm not entirely sure about blues but they can probably be passively cooled too. But blacks are going to need a fan blowing some air on them.
I've never had a Green so I don't know much about them. I've heard lots of conflicting reports on them however.
[QUOTE=cardfan212;40967280]What's the difference between a Western Digital Black and a Western Digital Blue HDD?[/QUOTE]
It goes like this.
Green = Storage, Cool, Slow, Inexpensive, known for not being super reliable.
Blue = Storage, Average Performance, Average Heat, reasonably priced, decently reliable.
Black = High performance, Higher storage, hotter, more expensive, reliable for most.
Red = High performance, Highest storage, average heat, very expensive, super reliable for home servers.
I still have two 640GB Blues which I bought in middle of 09 and still run fine. I ran them in a RAID0 for 2 years nonstop with no issues. Blues are good in my book. Greens are still good but, later ones are better overall. I still have two 2TB's which I got in 2010.
[QUOTE=Brt5470;40967410]It goes like this.
Green = Storage, Cool, Slow, Inexpensive, known for not being super reliable.
Blue = Storage, Average Performance, Average Heat, reasonably priced, decently reliable.
Black = High performance, Higher storage, hotter, more expensive, reliable for most.
Red = High performance, Highest storage, average heat, very expensive, super reliable for home servers.
[/QUOTE]
Now explain the difference between Johnnie Walker colours.
[QUOTE=Brt5470;40967410]It goes like this.
Green = Storage, Cool, Slow, Inexpensive, known for not being super reliable.
Blue = Storage, Average Performance, Average Heat, reasonably priced, decently reliable.
Black = High performance, Higher storage, hotter, more expensive, reliable for most.
Red = High performance, Highest storage, average heat, very expensive, super reliable for home servers.
I still have two 640GB Blues which I bought in middle of 09 and still run fine. I ran them in a RAID0 for 2 years nonstop with no issues. Blues are good in my book. Greens are still good but, later ones are better overall. I still have two 2TB's which I got in 2010.[/QUOTE]
What? Reds are not expensive lol.
At my microcenter I can get a 3TB red for 150 bucks, while a 2TB black will set you back 180 bucks
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