The "Quick Questions that does not Deserve a Thread"...Thread. V4
7,787 replies, posted
I bought some wireless cheap slim keyboard off Groupon, just to use when I'm in bed.
It's like a rip off of a Mac wireless mini keyboard.
When I'm in bed the keyboard seems to be slow and not pick up key presses that well.
Is that because it's a cheap ripoff or could it be because I'm using old batteries that could be running out?
The keyboard works over blue tooth so I duno really
[QUOTE=Over-Run;41491081]I bought some wireless cheap slim keyboard off Groupon, just to use when I'm in bed.
It's like a rip off of a Mac wireless mini keyboard.
When I'm in bed the keyboard seems to be slow and not pick up key presses that well.
Is that because it's a cheap ripoff or could it be because I'm using old batteries that could be running out?
The keyboard works over blue tooth so I duno really[/QUOTE]
could be the range
[editline]17th July 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=Mr. Someguy;41490612]What's a good temperature monitoring program? I want to be able to monitor my heat levels better because I'm having a lot of problems lately and it's getting hard to pinpoint the cause, (I'm guessing it's either heat related, driver related, or just the old I-haven't-reformatted-my-computer-in-years (because I lost the disc) related).
I've also considered underclocking several times due to heating problems, and that was when I [I]had[/I] air conditioning. I don't anymore and the summer hasn't been nice to my GPU (560 Ti, aka factory overclocked 560). What are the risks to underclocking and how difficult would that be to achieve do?[/QUOTE]
Use HW Monitor.
You wouldn't overheat because of any software problems (or at least it's pretty unlikely), you likely just need to dust your stuff and apply new thermal compound to the heatsinks.
[QUOTE=Mr. Someguy;41490612]What's a good temperature monitoring program? I want to be able to monitor my heat levels better because I'm having a lot of problems lately and it's getting hard to pinpoint the cause, (I'm guessing it's either heat related, driver related, or just the old I-haven't-reformatted-my-computer-in-years (because I lost the disc) related).
I've also considered underclocking several times due to heating problems, and that was when I [I]had[/I] air conditioning. I don't anymore and the summer hasn't been nice to my GPU (560 Ti, aka factory overclocked 560). What are the risks to underclocking and how difficult would that be to achieve do?[/QUOTE]
HWmonitor is probably what you're looking for. Speedfan and Speccy also provide pretty good overviews, though some people read the faulty (-154c temps etc) or nonexistant sensors and immediately FREAK OUT.
The description of the item said nothing about what the range was so should I be entitled to a full refund if it doesn't even have a range of 1.5 meters?
Crosspost from Sipwicket.
I need to get a laptop, the company i'm working for during the summer kinda implied that it would be much easier if I got a laptop and they're offering to order it for me through themselves so I don't have to pay VAT and then deduct the total cost from my earnings.
It's not going to be used for anything too resource intensive - only web browsing/programming/watching videos (probably in 1080p or 720p, depending on screen resolution) and other simple stuff. I'm not really sure what to get at the moment, i've considered a Macbook Air but i'm not too sure about it and i've also considered getting a Surface Pro but the battery life lets it down. I'm looking for something with ideally a 13" screen, 128GB+ HDD (or SSD) and a decent amount of RAM, but nothing too bulky - max height (excluding screen) should be around 0.6/0.7 inches.
Any suggestions for what laptop I should get? Max price should be £600 incl VAT and available in the UK.
[QUOTE=Shadaez;41491576]You wouldn't overheat because of any software problems (or at least it's pretty unlikely).[/QUOTE]
Well this I know not to be true. I've been fighting with this GPU's heat issue since I got it. It doesn't literally overheat, but it does get hot and the display driver crashes, freezing or crashing my game, or [I]very[/I] rarely BSOD'ing my computer. Sometimes I get artfacting and studder first, but not always.
[QUOTE=Shadaez;41491576]You likely just need to dust your stuff and apply new thermal compound to the heatsinks.[/QUOTE]
I dusted my stuff the other day, although I didn't use any thermal compound.
[QUOTE=Mr. Someguy;41494775]Well this I know not to be true. I've been fighting with this GPU's heat issue since I got it. It doesn't literally overheat, but it does get hot and the display driver crashes, freezing or crashing my game, or [I]very[/I] rarely BSOD'ing my computer. Sometimes I get artfacting and studder first, but not always.
I dusted my stuff the other day, although I didn't use any thermal compound.[/QUOTE]
What 560 TI is it? Is it an OC edition (TI doesn't mean it's OCed, it's a different model)? What temps does it get to during normal use? Get MSI afterburner and If it's factory OC'd and it's not getting too hot up the voltage a little, or if it's overheating you could to reduce the voltage, though it could make it more unstable (just don't save the settings until you're sure). If it's OC'd you could restore it to stock speeds and try reducing the voltage as well.
[editline]17th July 2013[/editline]
also what PSU
Well, I don't have temps yet because I didn't have anything to read them. But I'm pretty sure heat is an issue so I wouldn't want to up the voltage. I've felt the heat before, I just don't know exactly how hot it gets. Enough to make my display driver kill itself (sure it's heat related, it doesn't happen in winter and it's significantly picked up this summer since I lost my AC).
Power supply is a Rosewill Xtreme Series, not sure which model exactly, can't see enough of it without disconnecting my computer and moving it.
[editline]17th July 2013[/editline]
And does anyone know how important this vaguely labeled "NVIDIA Drivers" is?
[img]http://puu.sh/3EW2h[/img]
It's been there for awhile, it's never listed in any driver installation tutorials I looked through (was trying to see if it was, it's not), never removed it when installing new ones because I don't know what it is (when in doubt, don't fucking touch it). I'm iffy about using an automatic driver sweeper because I don't know what it's for and I don't like messing with things I'm unsure of.
well grab [url]http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html[/url]
. . . . . . . . . . Idle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . HL2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Artifacting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Post-Crash . . . . . . . .
[t]http://puu.sh/3Fj9n[/t][t]http://puu.sh/3Fjq3[/t][t]http://puu.sh/3FjE8[/t][t]http://puu.sh/3FjIU[/t]
[editline]17th July 2013[/editline]
I won't panic yet, since I'm not sure where the temps are supposed to be, but 167F doesn't sit well with me.
167ºF isn't a bad load temperature for graphics cards.
I have some .mkv video files that I need to convert to .avi files. What would be the best program to do that with? Free of course.
Avi isn't a video format, it's just a container which can hold many different video formats. What needs to view them?
Xbox360
I would suggest using [url]http://www.ps3mediaserver.org/[/url] (yes it works for 360) rather than converting the videos. It will basically convert them on the fly while you watch them.
I can't remember good converters right now.
Thing is the internal format in Mkv likely can be repackaged to mp4 just fine with no re-encoding.
You'd have to use mkvextract though.
[QUOTE=lavacano;41499109]167ºF isn't a bad load temperature for graphics cards.[/QUOTE]
That is not true at all.
[QUOTE=loophole;41499966]That is not true at all.[/QUOTE]
Fahrenheit, not Celsius. That comes out to 75C - perfectly fine.
[QUOTE=gman003-main;41500212]Fahrenheit, not Celsius. That comes out to 75C - perfectly fine.[/QUOTE]
o.
I should learn to read.
Anybody want parts from a mid-2010 macbook pro?
Hey don't know if anyone can answer this but, I've got an old joystick and gamepad that have the old gameport socket on them. Does anyone know if I buy a Gameport to USB adapter that it would work with Windows 7. Since I might be able to use it with Arma 3 and Star Citizen eventually.
So I'm new to this whole "gaming" mouse thing, finally replaced my stock HP mouse because I was tired of unwanted double clicking and pixel skipping in games.
I got a Logitech G400s and set up the DPI settings like this:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/CKmBV1U.png[/img]
But now I'm getting WORSE pixel skipping in games.
What did I do wrong?
ok so im trying to configure that intel smart response thing so my HDD can go faster.
i bought a 256gb samsung 840 pro and i partitioned the drive to a 192gb and a 64 gb partiton.
now i want to use that 64 gb partition as a cache for my 1tb HDD but the stupid intel RST software wont let me.
(the 192gb partition is where i installed windows)
you're supposed to click on this "accelerate" button
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/oXanSae.png[/IMG]
but for me that button doesn't exist!
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/ddSz7Sv.png[/IMG]
yes i left the 64 gb part of my SSD as un-allocated space as the RST sofware requires you to.
yes my motherboard is set to RAID and not AHCI or IDE
yes my motherboard supports intel smart reponse
My old motherboard recently fell victim to capacitor plague, I think I counted at least 7 clearly leaking capacitors and few more that are slightly bulging.....the PC still turns on (after several tries, power comes on but the system won't POST), but will freeze in a matter of minutes or sometimes hours. The mobo was a 7-year old AM2 mATX, originally purchased in 2007.
I'm making a new build tomorrow, and I'm thinking of using the old 750W PSU, which I bought around 2008-ish. Is this a terrible idea? What are the chances that the PSU is actually the main culprit which caused the mobo capacitor plague in the first place?
[QUOTE=Alex141;41510522]Hey don't know if anyone can answer this but, I've got an old joystick and gamepad that have the old gameport socket on them. Does anyone know if I buy a Gameport to USB adapter that it would work with Windows 7. Since I might be able to use it with Arma 3 and Star Citizen eventually.[/QUOTE]
It should work fine with Windows 7.
[editline]18th July 2013[/editline]
The only potential issue I foresee is the necessity to use different driver software all together. If the devices are so old they don't even use USB, then chances are the software they shipped with isn't even compatible with Windows 7.
A little digging around on Google should fix that pretty quickly though.
[QUOTE=Qaus;41512531]So I'm new to this whole "gaming" mouse thing, finally replaced my stock HP mouse because I was tired of unwanted double clicking and pixel skipping in games.
I got a Logitech G400s and set up the DPI settings like this:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/CKmBV1U.png[/img]
But now I'm getting WORSE pixel skipping in games.
What did I do wrong?[/QUOTE]
The G400 should only use DPIs by 300's, by that I mean 300, 600, 900, etc. There's some slight accel if you don't (it's not that big of a deal, it's just optimal. And it's def not what's causing this).
Make sure your mouse settings in Windows is like this:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/tRVsU0C.png[/img]
That's usually what causes pixel skipping.
If that's not it, you need to lower your sensitivity in your games (and then raise your DPI so that the movement stays the same). If you're using 200 DPI you'll have to set your sensitivity in games higher, which means that each pixel the mouse move is being multiplied by it, causing skipping. Instead you could set it to 600 and set the sensitivity to a third of what it was to keep it relatively the same, but be much smoother.
You should also disable Acceleration.
[editline]18th July 2013[/editline]
[QUOTE=Alex141;41510522]Hey don't know if anyone can answer this but, I've got an old joystick and gamepad that have the old gameport socket on them. Does anyone know if I buy a Gameport to USB adapter that it would work with Windows 7. Since I might be able to use it with Arma 3 and Star Citizen eventually.[/QUOTE]
Unless they're high end, I'd suggest just purchasing new USB peripherals.
Mhmm I thought that, I can't remember them having drivers since back on Windows 98 there were some built in drivers or something. I'll have a think about it.
[QUOTE=RangerRosie;41509891]Anybody want parts from a mid-2010 macbook pro?[/QUOTE]
What parts you got? Any RAM?
[del]Which one has generally smaller filesize? 320 MP3 or 256 AAC?[/del]
i'm retarded, pls ingore this
[QUOTE=Shadaez;41514706]The G400 should only use DPIs by 300's, by that I mean 300, 600, 900, etc. There's some slight accel if you don't (it's not that big of a deal, it's just optimal. And it's def not what's causing this).
Make sure your mouse settings in Windows is like this:
That's usually what causes pixel skipping.
If that's not it, you need to lower your sensitivity in your games (and then raise your DPI so that the movement stays the same). If you're using 200 DPI you'll have to set your sensitivity in games higher, which means that each pixel the mouse move is being multiplied by it, causing skipping. Instead you could set it to 600 and set the sensitivity to a third of what it was to keep it relatively the same, but be much smoother.
You should also disable Acceleration.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for all the info, but what exactly is wrong with acceleration? It seems to smooth out the mouse movements and make it less jittery.
I have an old d-link dir-655 at home and sometimes it needs to be rebooted because after a while upload speeds go down (from 10MB/s to like 60kB/s). Anyway I was wondering how I would go on about making a program that reboots the router? It uses a basic website to handle remote management and there's no telnet or anything. I know how to program but I never do web stuff but I have a basic understanding of how it works. Anyone have any tips?
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