The "Quick Questions that does not Deserve a Thread"...Thread. V4
7,787 replies, posted
"Fermi" is the code name of of the 4xx and 5xx gpus. 6xx and 7xx are named "Kepler" and 8-3xx are "Tesla"
Some manufactures put that code name in their model number, some don't, but they're still the same card and will work in SLI.
I made the mistake of buying a chromecast without actually checking the outputs of my TV or receiver. As it turns out, the TV has no audio out, and since the receiver is so old, it doesn't have optical or HDMI. Am I pretty much fucked? I want to be able to use my large ass speakers as opposed to my TV's tinny, shitty ones.
[QUOTE=waxrock;41793616]I made the mistake of buying a chromecast without actually checking the outputs of my TV or receiver. As it turns out, the TV has no audio out, and since the receiver is so old, it doesn't have optical or HDMI. Am I pretty much fucked? I want to be able to use my large ass speakers as opposed to my TV's tinny, shitty ones.[/QUOTE]
Which TV and what speakers?
[URL]http://us.toshiba.com/tv/led/55s41u/[/URL]
As for the speakers, they're one of those giant ones you hook up to an AV receiver for a home theater setup, so they use the speaker wires.
And my receiver is a Kenwood kr v7060. Yeah. It's at least a decade old.
I'm just trying to find a way to make this work without spending hundreds on another receiver...
[QUOTE=IpHa;41791096]"Fermi" is the code name of of the 4xx and 5xx gpus. 6xx and 7xx are named "Kepler" and 8-3xx are "Tesla"
Some manufactures put that code name in their model number, some don't, but they're still the same card and will work in SLI.[/QUOTE]
To clarify on this. You can run a GTX560 Ti Fermi and a GTX560 Ti non-fermi as both...
are Fermi.
Which is worth getting first: A 128GB SSD (840 Pro) or a 2TB HDD (Caviar Black)
Do you not currently have an SSD? then an 840. If you already have a decent SSD, then a 2TB drive might be of use.
Well it's for my new rig so I was just wondering which would be worth getting first just to have it running to begin with.
[QUOTE=MasterFen006;41796754]Well it's for my new rig so I was just wondering which would be worth getting first just to have it running to begin with.[/QUOTE]
The SSD is what you should be putting your OS on, so that's what you should get first. However, you're going to feel really cramped without a decent-sized hard drive.
I'd go for the SSD.
[QUOTE=gman003-main;41796968]The SSD is what you should be putting your OS on, so that's what you should get first. However, you're going to feel really cramped without a decent-sized hard drive.[/QUOTE]
I'm doing fine using about 100GB at the moment on my current HDD and my includes the 20 or so games I have installed, so I think it'll be fine with the SSD if I just keep a single game or two until I get the HDD.
[QUOTE=MasterFen006;41797471]I'm doing fine using about 100GB at the moment on my current HDD and my includes the 20 or so games I have installed, so I think it'll be fine with the SSD if I just keep a single game or two until I get the HDD.[/QUOTE]
I installed Windows to my SSD and everything else to my 2TB
Works surprisingly well especially with Steam allowing you to install games to a different drive.
So, I overclocked my CPU (4670k) for the first time. It's preforming satisfactorily. Right now I have Vcore at 1.116V and multiplier on 42. I have a Gigabyte z87x-d3h motherboard, and my question is: can I set the Vcore voltage so that it automatically scales up and down with the multiplier on the processsor (e.g. not using 1.116V when on 800 Mhz idle setting)? Will the "auto" setting do this, or would it cause issues with the overclock?
Edit:
Just tried the auto setting, and while it does accomplish this, it sets my VCore to 1.27 at load yielding much undesired results. Is there a way to limit it to 1.116 so I would go between .7-1.116 or so.
[quote]I made the mistake of buying a chromecast without actually checking the outputs of my TV or receiver. As it turns out, the TV has no audio out, and since the receiver is so old, it doesn't have optical or HDMI. Am I pretty much fucked? I want to be able to use my large ass speakers as opposed to my TV's tinny, shitty ones.[/quote]
[QUOTE][URL]http://us.toshiba.com/tv/led/55s41u/[/URL]
As for the speakers, they're one of those giant ones you hook up to an AV receiver for a home theater setup, so they use the speaker wires.
And my receiver is a Kenwood kr v7060. Yeah. It's at least a decade old.
I'm just trying to find a way to make this work without spending hundreds on another receiver...[/QUOTE]
Anything?
[QUOTE=waxrock;41803916]Anything?[/QUOTE]
I've got a solution for you. It's complicated, but cheaper than buying a new receiver, and it'll work with your setup.
Chromecast -> HDMI splitter (2 port)
______________V_____________V
_____HDMI-Analog Converter___TV
_________V____________V
___Audio to Receiver___Video-None
How's that for a flowchart?
or just get an HDMI audio converter
[url]http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011412&p_id=10251&seq=1&format=2[/url]
[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/251315591076?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649[/url]
I won this projector auction for 183$, with free shipping, being sold by the manufacturer or similar (unused). This is the best deal I could find after shopping for a day. Was it a steal? It seems like one to me, but I don't know projectors well, never having owned one before.
Keep in mind that most projector bids (including the one above) employ the use of 'reserve', which is a hidden minimum amount that the bidding must reach before the product is sold (or else nobody wins). For mine, it was right past 180, or they removed it at the last 30 seconds. The previous auction I tried for 200 did not let me win, because the reserve was not met (I was the highest bidder in that auction as well).
It's a pretty low resolution projector, but [del]180 is pretty cheap for it[/del]
it's an OK deal. Other places sell them around the same or less
[QUOTE=Shadaez;41806584]or just get an HDMI audio converter
[url]http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011412&p_id=10251&seq=1&format=2[/url][/QUOTE]
Oh, yeah. That works too.
[QUOTE=Shadaez;41806584]or just get an HDMI audio converter
[URL]http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10114&cs_id=1011412&p_id=10251&seq=1&format=2[/URL][/QUOTE]
Thanks. I found this on Amazon. [URL]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LOIKX6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/URL] for like $29.
Do you guys use mousepad with wrist support? I've been using it for a while, but lately it's hurting my wrist more than actually helping it support.
Now just rotated it so the support is at the side and it feels a lot better.
[QUOTE=Shadekill;41812013]Do you guys use mousepad with wrist support? I've been using it for a while, but lately it's hurting my wrist more than actually helping it support.
Now just rotated it so the support is at the side and it feels a lot better.[/QUOTE]
I had one years ago, I miss it.
Do I enable AHCI mode in BIOS (and a registry edit apparently), if I'm not currently using my SSD as the boot device, just another storage drive?
[QUOTE=Medevilae;41814961]I was just given a SSD for free, an 'ADATA S596', 32 GB DDR2
I was thinking about putting OS on it, would it be any better than a 7200 RPM WD Caviar Black[/QUOTE]
Way better, depending on what your going to use it for other than the OS. I have used a 32GB SSD for my boot drive, and you really have to learn to be resourceful with your space.
[QUOTE=Medevilae;41814961]I was just given a SSD for free, an 'ADATA S596', 32 GB DDR2
I was thinking about putting OS on it, would it be any better than a 7200 RPM WD Caviar Black[/QUOTE]
For OS? Of course.
So my pc has this weird habit of making my games freeze, I started to happen with X-Com Enemy Unknown but now it happens in a lot of games, especially the ones that are new.
My issue is that my game just freezes and I can only fix it by tabbing out and back in. Nevertheless after a few moments my game freezes again for no apparent reason. It happened in Enemy Unknown, Sacred 2, Risen, Saints Row the Third and few other titles.
Also sometimes when I tab out there is a message saying "Display driver stopped working but has been successfully recovered" or something similiar. So it's probably related to my graphics card.
I know that my pc is not that great and pretty old. I'll just post my specs.
[quote]Windows 7 32 Bit Ultimate
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU e8500 @ 3,16Ghz 3,17Ghz
2048 GB DDR2 Ram
Nvidia Geforce GTX 285 with 1 GB Ram
640 GB Harddrive[/quote]
It's easily noticeable that my specs are really sucky, especially for newer games but I always pass the minimum requirements and tweak the graphic settings of my game in a way that it should work. Also I didn't have this issue back then. Some games like Metro Last Light or games that are more graphic intense work without a problem, which is weird in my opinion.
Also I have also tried cooling my pc with fans and other stuff to see if it would make a difference, but it just seems so random.
Naturally I updated my drivers and cleand my pc several times, any suggestion what might cause this?
[QUOTE=junker154;41815785]So my pc has this weird habit of making my games freeze, I started to happen with X-Com Enemy Unknown but now it happens in a lot of games, especially the ones that are new.
My issue is that my game just freezes and I can only fix it by tabbing out and back in. Nevertheless after a few moments my game freezes again for no apparent reason. It happened in Enemy Unknown, Sacred 2, Risen, Saints Row the Third and few other titles.
Also sometimes when I tab out there is a message saying "Display driver stopped working but has been successfully recovered" or something similiar. So it's probably related to my graphics card.
I know that my pc is not that great and pretty old. I'll just post my specs.
It's easily noticeable that my specs are really sucky, especially for newer games but I always pass the minimum requirements and tweak the graphic settings of my game in a way that it should work. Also I didn't have this issue back then. Some games like Metro Last Light or games that are more graphic intense work without a problem, which is weird in my opinion.
Also I have also tried cooling my pc with fans and other stuff to see if it would make a difference, but it just seems so random.
Naturally I updated my drivers and cleand my pc several times, any suggestion what might cause this?[/QUOTE]
Do a clean install of your drivers, maybe use an older release or beta release
I already tried that, I used a variety of older drivers and beta drivers. I didn't work.
The mystery is if it's the hardware or software fucking up.
[QUOTE=Medevilae;41814961]I was just given a SSD for free, an 'ADATA S596', 32 GB DDR2
I was thinking about putting OS on it, would it be any better than a 7200 RPM WD Caviar Black[/QUOTE]
For something that small, I'd see about using it as a cache disk. Managing the space on that will be a bitch.
so I casually opened up my computer today to clean out all the dust (and it was awful) I didnt disconnect any of my sata cables, and i placed the side panel back on and i rebooted
apparently something happened because all of a sudden none of the drives except my C drive are showing up in my computer
[t]http://puu.sh/40FK5.png[/t]
but when i open up disk management...
[t]http://puu.sh/40Gcs.png[/t]
I can still see it. So if anyone has any ideas/suggestions on how to fix this, I'd really appreciate it
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