• PC Building Thread
    4,998 replies, posted
Okay, so I had an issue about a year ago where my PSU wouldn't receive a signal from the motherboard telling it to turn on. I fixed it by shorting two pins in the motherboard 24-pin power connector with a paper clip. Booted right up, and it's been stable since. Look that up, give it a try.
[QUOTE=woolio1;49114491]Okay, so I had an issue about a year ago where my PSU wouldn't receive a signal from the motherboard telling it to turn on. I fixed it by shorting two pins in the motherboard 24-pin power connector with a paper clip. Booted right up, and it's been stable since. Look that up, give it a try.[/QUOTE] Which pins would I have to short, and how should I do it.
I have no idea which pins, you'll probably have to Google that. As for how, get yourself a paperclio and some needle nose pliers, make a little arch about half an inch tall, and jam that into the back of the power connector with some force. Not too much, you don't want to break something. I think, but I'm not sure, it's the green and black ones next to each other.
That sounds kind of dangerous.
[QUOTE=Janus Vesta;49114524]Which pins would I have to short, and how should I do it.[/QUOTE] Look at my first post about your issues. It shows you how. Bridge the two pins, [I]then[/I] plug in the PSU and see if it turns on. Afterwards unplug the PSU, let it sit for a bit just to be safe, [I]then[/I] take out the paperclip you used to bridge the pins. [editline]14th November 2015[/editline] I've done it a few dozen times without any issues. Also check to see if your PSU came with a bridge. It'll look like either a flat 24 pin female like your motherboard or it may something that looks like an extender that already has a bridging wire in it. Some come with it, I'm not sure on that XFX.
My psu didn't come with a bridge so I used a paper clip. I switched the psu on and the fan instantly started. I switched off the psu and unplugged it, I left the paper clip connected because touching it right away would be a bad idea. [editline]14th November 2015[/editline] Alright I just tried taking the paper clip out and connecting it to the motherboard again. It feeds power to the small orange light but it still won't turn on when I press the power button.
just a wild idea but have you tried moving the red switch on the PSU [editline]14th November 2015[/editline] it corresponds to two settings, one of which (230) is the correct european voltage whereas the other (115) is the US voltage [editline]14th November 2015[/editline] should be inscribed on the switch before you try anything
I can't see a red switch on the psu. Just the on/off switch.
then check the back of the case adjacent to the the PSU where the plug goes in (the case, not the PSU) [IMG]http://i.cubeupload.com/qgVXev.jpg[/IMG]
[QUOTE=Kommodore;49114876]then check the back of the case adjacent to the the PSU where the plug goes in (the case, not the PSU)[/QUOTE] His is an autoswitching model. It will not have one of those.
dang
Would woolio1's suggestion of putting a paper clip in the back of the 24 pin connector work or would it be a bad idea?
It does the exact same thing that you already did.
[QUOTE=Janus Vesta;49114937]Would woolio1's suggestion of putting a paper clip in the back of the 24 pin connector work or would it be a bad idea?[/QUOTE] Bad idea to run like that. Did you use the correct motherboard standoffs?
[QUOTE=Levelog;49114007]Better performance. If you're playing at 1080p I'd recommend the 4gb for sure. And yes, the 380x is coming out soon. I'd wait for that if you can. It's a straight upgrade on the 380 which means it's got the newer GCN architecture that only the 285/380 does.[/QUOTE] I'll try and wait for 380X then, but if the 380 gets significantly cheaper due to black friday/christmas/etc, I'll get that. Maybe. :v: Thanks for the help!
[QUOTE=taipan;49115010]Bad idea to run like that. Did you use the correct motherboard standoffs?[/QUOTE] The motherboard didn't come with standoffs so I used the ones that came with the case.
Should I return the motherboard and get a replacement? It seems to be the problem.
[QUOTE=Death King83;49112531]Alright guys it's finally time for an upgrade to my aging computer but it's been so long it'll essentially be almost a new build. I have the case, hard drive, power supply already, here's what I'm looking at getting for a dirt cheap build. If my research is correct this should be able to run most newer games at like medium settings at 1080p. What do you guys think? [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/p9kwWZ]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/p9kwWZ/by_merchant/]Price breakdown by merchant[/url] [b]CPU:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646g3250]Intel Pentium G3250 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor[/url] ($56.99) Amazon Prime [b]Motherboard:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-motherboard-h81me34]MSI H81M-E34 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard[/url] ($50.99) Amazon Prime [b]Memory:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cml8gx3m2c1600c9]Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory[/url] ($38.99) Amazon Prime [b]Video Card:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-n750ti2gd5oc]MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card[/url] ($89.99 @ Newegg) [b]Case:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/rosewill-case-cruiser]Rosewill Cruiser ATX Mid Tower Case[/url] (Purchased For $0.00) Already have [b]Operating System:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-gfc02050]Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM (64-bit)[/url] ($58.00) Amazon Prime [b]Total:[/b] $294.96 [i]Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available[/i] [i]Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-13 20:20 EST-0500[/i][/QUOTE] Save more money.
[QUOTE=Janus Vesta;49116974]Should I return the motherboard and get a replacement? It seems to be the problem.[/QUOTE] Try jumping the motherboard. Check your manual for power button jump points, there should be some in a corner somewhere. Bridge them with some needle-nose pliers. If that doesn't work, RMA it.
Hey guys, I think I have a good thing going... [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4QPFjX]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4QPFjX/by_merchant/]Price breakdown by merchant[/url] [b]CPU:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80662i36100]Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor[/url] ($125.98 @ Newegg) [b]Motherboard:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gigabyte-motherboard-gah110ma]Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard[/url] ($51.99 @ SuperBiiz) [b]Memory:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f42133c15d8grr]G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory[/url] ($48.99 @ Newegg) [b]Storage:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct120m500ssd1]Crucial M500 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive[/url] (Purchased For $0.00) [b]Storage:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/seagate-internal-hard-drive-st1000dm003]Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive[/url] ($44.89 @ OutletPC) [b]Video Card:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-r93804gd5toc]MSI Radeon R9 380 4GB Video Card[/url] ($194.99 @ Newegg) [b]Case:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/nzxt-case-s210002]NZXT Source 210 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case[/url] ($34.99 @ Directron) [b]Power Supply:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-100b10500kr]EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply[/url] ($39.99 @ Amazon) [b]Total:[/b] $541.82 [i]Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available[/i] [i]Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-14 19:06 EST-0500[/i]
[QUOTE=Death King83;49112531]Alright guys it's finally time for an upgrade to my aging computer but it's been so long it'll essentially be almost a new build. I have the case, hard drive, power supply already, here's what I'm looking at getting for a dirt cheap build. If my research is correct this should be able to run most newer games at like medium settings at 1080p. What do you guys think? [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/p9kwWZ]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/p9kwWZ/by_merchant/]Price breakdown by merchant[/url] [b]CPU:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646g3250]Intel Pentium G3250 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor[/url] ($56.99) Amazon Prime [b]Motherboard:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-motherboard-h81me34]MSI H81M-E34 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard[/url] ($50.99) Amazon Prime [b]Memory:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cml8gx3m2c1600c9]Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory[/url] ($38.99) Amazon Prime [b]Video Card:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-n750ti2gd5oc]MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card[/url] ($89.99 @ Newegg) [b]Case:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/rosewill-case-cruiser]Rosewill Cruiser ATX Mid Tower Case[/url] (Purchased For $0.00) Already have [b]Operating System:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-gfc02050]Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM (64-bit)[/url] ($58.00) Amazon Prime [b]Total:[/b] $294.96 [i]Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available[/i] [i]Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-13 20:20 EST-0500[/i][/QUOTE] What made this build so good at this price point is, - Overclocking if you pick up an G3258 - Can upgrade CPU with high-end hardware at any point LGA1150 is now deprecated, and you chose the G3250 which can't be overclocked. You can spend 30 dollars extra and you'll be able to get an G3258 that can overclock to 4.5ghz, and potentially pick up a different overclockable CPU down the line. (Or spend 200 dollars extra and go for the build right above this post) [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/B3xRcf]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/B3xRcf/by_merchant/]Price breakdown by merchant[/url] [b]CPU:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646g3258]Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor[/url] ($63.89 @ OutletPC) [b]Motherboard:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/ecs-motherboard-z97pkv10]ECS Z97-PK (V1.0) Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard[/url] ($81.98 @ Newegg) [b]Memory:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cml8gx3m2c1600c9]Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory[/url] ($38.99) [b]Video Card:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-n750ti2gd5oc]MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card[/url] ($89.99 @ Newegg) [b]Case:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/rosewill-case-cruiser]Rosewill Cruiser ATX Mid Tower Case[/url] (Purchased For $0.00) [b]Operating System:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-gfc02050]Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM (64-bit)[/url] ($58.00) [b]Total:[/b] $332.85 [i]Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available[/i] [i]Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-14 19:25 EST-0500[/i]
Wait, what's the current Intel lineup? I thought we were still on 1150. This might change my build entirely.
But is it worth buying at this point? How much more expensive is RAM for 1151 than 1150? Are the motherboards using the 170 chipsets still buggy, like they usually are after a new chipset launch, or have they ironed those issues out yet? What are the advantages of buying Skylake right now, especially when the last-generation 1150 processors are so good and readily-available?
[QUOTE=Cold;49118071]What made this build so good at this price point is, - Overclocking if you pick up an G3258 - Can upgrade CPU with high-end hardware at any point LGA1150 is now deprecated, and you chose the G3250 which can't be overclocked. You can spend 30 dollars extra and you'll be able to get an G3258 that can overclock to 4.5ghz, and potentially pick up a different overclockable CPU down the line. (Or spend 200 dollars extra and go for the build right above this post) [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/B3xRcf]PCPartPicker part list[/url] / [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/p/B3xRcf/by_merchant/]Price breakdown by merchant[/url] [b]CPU:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-cpu-bx80646g3258]Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor[/url] ($63.89 @ OutletPC) [b]Motherboard:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/ecs-motherboard-z97pkv10]ECS Z97-PK (V1.0) Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard[/url] ($81.98 @ Newegg) [b]Memory:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/corsair-memory-cml8gx3m2c1600c9]Corsair Vengeance LP 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory[/url] ($38.99) [b]Video Card:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-video-card-n750ti2gd5oc]MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card[/url] ($89.99 @ Newegg) [b]Case:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/rosewill-case-cruiser]Rosewill Cruiser ATX Mid Tower Case[/url] (Purchased For $0.00) [b]Operating System:[/b] [url=http://pcpartpicker.com/part/microsoft-os-gfc02050]Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM (64-bit)[/url] ($58.00) [b]Total:[/b] $332.85 [i]Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available[/i] [i]Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-14 19:25 EST-0500[/i][/QUOTE] How much performance would that actually add to the build? I probably wouldn't OC that high, as I'd like to NOT fry my computer. I'd like to keep the stock CPU cooler. Is my bottleneck not number of cores/threads, as opposed to clock speed?
[QUOTE=woolio1;49118375]But is it worth buying at this point? How much more expensive is RAM for 1151 than 1150? Are the motherboards using the 170 chipsets still buggy, like they usually are after a new chipset launch, or have they ironed those issues out yet? What are the advantages of buying Skylake right now, especially when the last-generation 1150 processors are so good and readily-available?[/QUOTE] If you're already on 1150, there's not much of a reason to upgrade to Skylake. If you don't mind spending the extra money on a fresh build, I don't see why not, I haven't seen too much about the new chipset being buggy. And DDR4 RAM is nice.
So, I'm planning on upgrading come Cyber Monday/Week/Thing - going to get a new mobo, CPU, and RAM as I posted about a while back in this thread - and I was thinking about grabbing a new SSD if I can get a good deal on one. Thing is, I'm looking for a larger one, cause my current 250GB just isn't cutting it. I'd settle for 500GB, but it'd be awesome if I could get a 1TB SSD. My question is, what are some good, larger-sized SSDs, and what are the best brands? I recall Samsung generally being the best ones, and I've had a good experience with my current one which is Samsung.
[QUOTE=woolio1;49118375]But is it worth buying at this point? How much more expensive is RAM for 1151 than 1150? Are the motherboards using the 170 chipsets still buggy, like they usually are after a new chipset launch, or have they ironed those issues out yet? What are the advantages of buying Skylake right now, especially when the last-generation 1150 processors are so good and readily-available?[/QUOTE] DDR4 is pretty much the same price as DDR3 now, I bought 2x8GiB 1333 DDR3 a couple of months ago for ~$120, 2x8GiB 2133 DDR4 is ~$140 (Kangaroo dollars).
[QUOTE=Death King83;49118487]How much performance would that actually add to the build? I probably wouldn't OC that high, as I'd like to NOT fry my computer. I'd like to keep the stock CPU cooler. Is my bottleneck not number of cores/threads, as opposed to clock speed?[/QUOTE] There is no such thing as an demand for cores/threads just overall CPU performance, and single-thread-performance. You increase the clock speed, you increase the single-thread-peformance, and thus also the overall CPU performance. These overclocks are at 4.7ghz, you should manage 4.0-4.2 on a stock cooler, so multiply the OC performance increases with, ~0.66 [url]http://www.anandtech.com/show/8232/overclockable-pentium-anniversary-edition-review-the-intel-pentium-g3258-ae[/url] [img]http://cld.moe/files/2015-11-15_04-52-17.png[/img] [img]http://cld.moe/files/2015-11-15_04-52-58.png[/img] It kinda depends on what games you like to play, MMOs RTS Openworld you're likely to see a bigger FPS increase from increased CPU performance.
[QUOTE=woolio1;49117543]Try jumping the motherboard. Check your manual for power button jump points, there should be some in a corner somewhere. Bridge them with some needle-nose pliers. If that doesn't work, RMA it.[/QUOTE] The only jumpers in the manual are the RTC RAM jumpers and the CPU over voltage jumpers.
Err, chaps. Was given [URL="http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/pxrCxr"]this list[/URL] here but I don't see a way of actually installing Windows as there's no disk drive.
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