• $299 3D printer achieves Kickstarter goal in minutes
    101 replies, posted
so i can finally get myself the payday masks irl, then ? fuck count me in
[QUOTE=paindoc;44519670]There really is not enough education about 3D printers in general... it seriously needs to change. Quick rundown of common themes in the thread -You will not be making DnD minis, most likely. That level of detail is quite hard, and games workshop is uber aggressive about getting that stuff pulled from thingiverse and such -3D printing a 3D printer (or parts of it, rather) is the very premise of the [URL="http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap"]RepRap project[/URL]. Cheap, high quality printers that can fix themselves and partially duplicate themselves -There is a project a lot like this called the Makibox that has been behind schedule now for a year and a half, and looked just as good in potential. For $299 you can get yourself a printrbot simple that will work quite well and will ship within a few days. Print time on this printer will be slow I imagine, and the build volume is quite tiny. A more rigid design like a mendelmax 1.0-2.0 and Prusa i3 can reach MUCH higher speeds and just shit out small parts with a high enough acceleration setting. Printers require a fair amount of maintenance too, from maintaining belts, keeping threaded rods lightly greased, and maintaining the electronics (stepper drivers love to overheat). AND FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THAT IS HOLY DONT BUY A MAKERBOT. They're way way way way overpriced for how they perform. Seriously. Just don't.[/QUOTE] I never understood why the major DIY 3D printers went with such sheisty stepper drivers when they knew damn-well they would over-heat like crazy. I was considering building one myself along the lines of a [url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRxdDFphtwA]Delta configuration[/url], but most of the sites that sell the control boards also seem to insist using those weedy controller boards, so I'll probably have to devise my own. As for making minis, as I mentioned earlier in the thread, Privateer Press actually makes a good deal of the master molds using 3D-printed parts. It's especially noticeable in the Cygnar Storm Strider model, where certain sections of the legs still have that trade-mark "ridged" texture you get from such devices. You won't be able to print CREEEEEEEEED!!!'s face with any detail, but for larger minis such as vehicles (which are also stupidly expensive) it's doable and you can mask the ridges with paint/putties. But really, something like this would be great for an Ork player, they already cobble together awesome stuff from random bitz, imagine what they could do if they could print out more complex shapes in one go? Though if you did go that route, I wouldn't advise printing entire armies of existing models, I'd do it for custom/conversion parts only myself, if I still played. And obviously it would be cheaper to do as PP does, and use it to make a master which you can then make molds to cast copies out of resin.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;44522629]I never understood why the major DIY 3D printers went with such sheisty stepper drivers when they knew damn-well they would over-heat like crazy. I was considering building one myself along the lines of a [url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRxdDFphtwA]Delta configuration[/url], but most of the sites that sell the control boards also seem to insist using those weedy controller boards, so I'll probably have to devise my own. As for making minis, as I mentioned earlier in the thread, Privateer Press actually makes a good deal of the master molds using 3D-printed parts. It's especially noticeable in the Cygnar Storm Strider model, where certain sections of the legs still have that trade-mark "ridged" texture you get from such devices. You won't be able to print CREEEEEEEEED!!!'s face with any detail, but for larger minis such as vehicles (which are also stupidly expensive) it's doable and you can mask the ridges with paint/putties. But really, something like this would be great for an Ork player, they already cobble together awesome stuff from random bitz, imagine what they could do if they could print out more complex shapes in one go? Though if you did go that route, I wouldn't advise printing entire armies of existing models, I'd do it for custom/conversion parts only myself, if I still played. And obviously it would be cheaper to do as PP does, and use it to make a master which you can then make molds to cast copies out of resin.[/QUOTE] Most of the time stepper drivers are quite fine; they are purpose built devices after all, pumping several amps of power to an exacting motor. Just put heatsinks on them and get some airflow moving and you will 0 problems (airflow also helps the heated bed and hot end MOSFETs stay cool)
[QUOTE=paindoc;44527032]Most of the time stepper drivers are quite fine; they are purpose built devices after all, pumping several amps of power to an exacting motor. Just put heatsinks on them and get some airflow moving and you will 0 problems (airflow also helps the heated bed and hot end MOSFETs stay cool)[/QUOTE] Most of them, yes, but then there's the designs that, for whatever reason, insist on running two motors off of one controller. Makes absolutely no sense to me, especially if they knew there MIGHT be a problem with that.
[QUOTE=Zero-Point;44527077]Most of them, yes, but then there's the designs that, for whatever reason, insist on running two motors off of one controller. Makes absolutely no sense to me, especially if they knew there MIGHT be a problem with that.[/QUOTE] There is generally no problem running two motors off one driver because its the Z axis, and this is the axis that commonly activates the least and requires the least force. So it works out all good. If its the X or Y that may cause some trouble as well
We had a 3d printer at school, it was really cool to make stuff with it. That said I can't see the point of owning one unless you're a business or enthusiast. At least if people want it it's available.
[QUOTE=paindoc;44527257]There is generally no problem running two motors off one driver because its the Z axis, and this is the axis that commonly activates the least and requires the least force. So it works out all good. If its the X or Y that may cause some trouble as well[/QUOTE] All I know is when I was looking into making one, I saw tons of people complaining about that axis' controller over-heating.
[QUOTE=frozensoda;44520931][about people being misinformed about printing guns][/QUOTE] soon as the gun shit hit the fan, the media latched onto it hard, and muh freedom types latched onto the freedoms of it harder. I remember watching a video by the creator of the liberator, his words would have been fine down on paper but the way he presented everything was like watching an evil scientist lay out his plans, he was an unsettling character
could a 3D printer print a circuit boards silicon wafer? obviously you'd have to do the rest of it manually or with other techniques, like laying out the copper layouts and such, but the silicon wafer itself?
[QUOTE=HumanAbyss;44532160]could a 3D printer print a circuit boards silicon wafer? obviously you'd have to do the rest of it manually or with other techniques, like laying out the copper layouts and such, but the silicon wafer itself?[/QUOTE] Resolution isn't high enough currently for most integrated circuits.
[QUOTE=paindoc;44519670] -You will not be making DnD minis, most likely. That level of detail is quite hard, and games workshop is uber aggressive about getting that stuff pulled from thingiverse and such [/QUOTE] Oh? Well...what about the ones they clearly show here? [img]https://s3.amazonaws.com/ksr/assets/001/776/958/73b6f0dfad2a63f8876ee3a0d7faba60_large.png[/img]
Sorry, you need to Log In to post a reply to this thread.