123D Catch (2D to 3D)


This is a cool tool I wanted to share with you guys, came out in 2011 as a FREE online beta. It allows you to turn your 2D images, into 3D models!! yes

I figured people could use this to post 3D models of there hott girlfriends :slight_smile: Joking
…But I’m sure this could aid others in creating a fairly accurate 3D representation of themselves. Just stick out your arms and have a friend photography you. :stuck_out_tongue:

All you need to do is take pictures of your subject from all angles, and you can generate a 3D model

Here are a few tests I did, first on simple objects, moving up to more complex objects. The quality is obviously laughable, however pretty impressive for just 2D images <_<


StereoPhotoGrammetry Construct:

Download (FBX+JPG):

Other Stuff I Photographed / Converted:

Catch is currently FREE, but only as a beta. Unfortunately for now you can’t “download” catch, but rather upload your photos to their server. The server will then resend your scene to you when it is done processing.

Anyways, if your interested in trying 123D Catch, please share your experiences and creations here. it would be cool seeing what others were able to recreate in 3D !! :smiley:

PS. If your further interested in alternative 3D scanning methods, I’m currently researching a laser method which is relatively cheap. It only requires a PC, Camera, and Laser pointer. The crappy part is that the program created for this disables the ability to scan textured models.
That is however until you pay $1000 dollars (USD) for a serial to unlock the darn feature! lol So I think for now I’ll stick with 123D, until someone can hook me up with a unlocked laser program :wink:


Interesting, very interesting.

That’s pretty darn neat, I think I’ll try it out.

Oh boy.

I am totally going to use this for something cool.

I tried this program after watching this video before and somehow curious to try…

It’s really nice thing to use, but in order to make perfect 3D object, it needs more accurate pictures with better perspective and good lighting…

thats true, but you don’t need any super expensive professional equipment, just light your scene well
(I recommend going outside in the late evening)
… and just try to keep your shots consistent, I used a cheap 6MP digital camera I bought 3 years ago

So you have to take 3 (or more) pictures from different angles around the subject?

Despite what you think, your dick isn’t cool Ryu-Gi.

No man we need more nude elf models man

123D Catch is actually a pretty intresting program. The more photos you have of the object the better the model will turn out. Mario as for the laser scanning method I believe you don’t need just a laser pointer, you need a line laser to scan the model with. You can do just about anything with the 123D Catch software, but it can stil be tricky.
The cool part is that after you get the model from the program, you can clean up the file and run it through Shapeways or Ponoko. But to clean it up you’ll need a 3D software to remove unwanted faces, and you’ll need Netfabb Basic (free) to check for errors and to perform scaling before printing.

I bought a laser at crappy tire today for 9 bucks, but the method described on the DAVID site doesn’t work. They said to point the laser into a glass rod or wine glass to produce a line. However when I tried the wine glass trick, the laser dispersed in a circle. But with a very decreased intensity… meaning I would need a very dark room… and the control of the beam is shaky at best

So just went searching on ebay and bought an actual line laser with AC adapter :smiley: Once I get the laser I’ll give it a try and let you guys know how it goes

I know with the Catch captures, the mesh is seamless… however with the laser method, the tutorials show that you must capture multiple sides, and combine them yourself… creating alot of seams and breaks in your mesh…

Catch may be a great low-res & low cost solution for 3D capturing

Catch is good for 3D capturing, and the better megapixel camera you have the better the model will turn out. And yeah trying to scan using a wine glass or glass rod and a laser pointer just won’t do the trick. But glad to hear you got a line laser.
The seams and breaks in the mesh can be a pain to work out, when I did laser scanning, I had dowel rod and a couple pieces of wood cut with a groove cut out of the wood, assembled and that way I could move the dowel rod up and down and move the holder around the model. It allows for a steady scan. When you use your hand to scan with though you’ll get a shaking problem.
The other trick I know is adhearing the laser to a piece of wood, with a level tool on the wood as well, keeping a eye on the level while scanning will also help keep it steady.

ahh… I figured the laser method was going to be more of a pain in the ass… but the examples I saw showed extreme surface detail like scratches and dust… I was impressed. But seems it all depends on your equipment, camera setup, and having a properly made-up rig to rotate your object etc…

Think I’ll try to scan some more figures in, so far I keep getting artifacts… I think I’ve finally figured out whats causing them

> Blurry Photos
> Reflective Objects Included in Photos
> Inconsistent Light / Shades from me leaning over crap

Got a lamp, and taped some white paper on it to diffuse the lighting. A strong light source causes shadows that are very dark and sharp… I’ve also moved to a isolated room, and masked anything possibly reflective. Example: DoorKnobs

Just gotta keep my shots in focus, and be mind full not to get my shadow over the object… and I think I’ll be able to capture a flawless model

took another one today

I’m thinking about taking one of my own figurines and doing this now. How many pictures exactly did you take of that last one, mario? for reference…

I’ll upload my folder, but like around 200…

some key tips

  • all shots must be in focus on your object! blurry shots will cause problems. a blurry background doesn’t matter
  • Light! over exposed or under exposed images probably won’t get stitch together :frowning:
  • Keep all photos in the same orientation… so like landscape or portrait, dont mix them
  • don’t take SUPER HD photos… as they get re-sized when they get uploaded…

… um thats all I can think of for the moment… just don’t over kill past 200 images, I’ve had catch freeze on me twice now when trying to upload it…

PS. the photos are 50mbs, check back in like 30mins, I’ll update this post with a link

Oh, wow, I didn’t need you to upload all of your pictures, I just wanted to know how many of them you took…

…but thanks anyways…?

You could call it something for people to test out with by using Mario’s photos. Currently I’m trying to take one of the Animated Clone Trooper toy figures and seeing what I can do with it. I have’nt had much luck with a person that can stay still. Hey Mario I know it’s off-topic but have you tried playing around with a program known as Pepakura at all?

I am nowhere NEAR that good looking in real life.

How many photos did you take for that?